Bicycle Bits! - What’s your latest acquisition?

A friend of mine swapped to Schwalbe almost slick type tyres to replace the MTB tyres on his bike at my suggestion. Nominally the same size.

Like me he commutes to work daily, and so far the tyres are two years old and show next to no sign of usage unlike the MTB type tyres which did not last long.

Those Schwalbes roll beautifully.

Alternatively, for a tyre with slightly more grip on rougher surfaces, and very good puncture protection, consider the Schwalbe Marathon or Marathon Plus.

They make these down to 25 - 700c, and I use them in the winter, though I am not sure that I'll bother to fit my road tyres [Schwalbe Blizzards 23 - 700c], as I have converted the Carlton to an upright as it is much safer that way. 

ATB from George

The tyres my friend has are called City Jet.

http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/active-line/

Second down. Very good.

ATB from George

I'm using Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 32-622 (700 x 32C) on the bike I use for touring and distance trips on weekends. I can't recommend them enough. They roll fast and slick and stick to the wet roads. You can easily ride on (hard) gravel etc. They are just perfect. Unless if one is going on a trip around the world I don't see a need for heavier tyres or tyres with bigger profile (some other Schwalbe Marathons). I think they are the best tyres for commute and touring.

Continental has some nice all-round tyres as well (Contact series), but for this bike I will be buying Schwalbe Marathon Supreme again (they start at 700 x 28C):

http://www.schwalbetires.com/b...res/marathon_supreme

If you want something more narrow, even lighter and faster, look at Continental Grand Prix 4-Season or Gatorskin (puncture resistant and durable race tyres; they come in sizes from 700 x 23 to 700 x 28). I went touring with them one year, I regretted the decision after first few meters of fully loaded ride: I had a feeling they will not be up for the job - but it all went well. Latter I put them on my daily commute bike. I don't remember a single puncture in years.

I am using Continental Gatorskins 700x28 and love them. They have been great on road and paved paths. I have put about 250 miles on them since I got them mid-January.

I don't think I can go as wide as 32 mm on my mike. The LBS said I may not have enough clearance on the frame and brakes and recommended I go with 700x28.

Wow, thanks for all your replies, recommendations and information.  

I've learnt something here because I thought that the 23/25/28c reference was to the profile rather than the width of the tyre!  Taking that into account I can see why the 23 would be unsuitable and practically would be stretching the tyre over the rim on a 700 wheel (considering it comes fitted with around 35ish nominally). 

Ok, I'll have a look around the 32 mark in the meantime to get an idea of what's available and I'll have a chat with my dealer when I collect the bike to confirm the range of suitability on the rims fitted to the bike. I'll keep an eye open for suitable Continental and Schwalbe versions based on the recommendations here. 

Many Thanks.

Jason

Picture posted on behalf of George J

Thanks George.

The set up is new, but the North Road handlebar is merely upside down. I have just put on the Super Record hubbed, Ambrosio rimmed, wheels back on with their Schalbe Blizzard 700c - 23 tyres. Excellent!

Brings the responsiveness back and makes the bike light compared to the wheels with the Marathons on.

In fact the bike now only weighs 9.7 kilos, which is very light for a steel framed classic.

The new kit is the pair of brake levers that allow for a proper placement on the tails of the bar the other way up.

Like this the cycle is even finer in handling. You don't even have to think about it. It steers with a sense of reflex. And it is very narrow compared to any flat or comfort bar so you can get through narrow places easily.

ATB from George

I have Schwalbe Lugano 700-23c tyres on my bike

I cycle to work pretty much every day nowadays (20km each way), but I do seem to get more than my fair share of flats and punctures. Can I ask of the collected wisdom here:

a) might I be better getting thicker tyres to lessen the risk of having to change inner tubes as often as I do?

b) In desperation, and simply I confess on the basis that they cost more, I bought some (2) Michelin Latex inner tubes last night (it was partly because of a limited choice for the right size with valves long enough). Are these worth the extra? No issues so far, but has only been a day! I have the receipt and could return the unused one if I've made some ghastly error!

c) Are the supposed self-repair inner-tubes any good?

d) How about tubeless tyres?

Thanks in advance.

Rod

Are you running high enough pressures? Will depend a bit on your weight but should be 7 bar probably. If the roads are poor and you tend to get pinch ('snakebite') punctures this may be your problem.

Self repair tubes I believe to be useless, they are not popular. Never tried them myself. I'm not sure the fancy inner tubes are much better but I guess worth a go. I reckon once the tyre is pierced it is going to puncture the tube!

Tubeless tyres still get flats. Their advantages are a bit more comfort at lower pressure and a lower weight. They are also immune to pinch flats. Flats are harder to fix on the road-you have to put in a tube so no real advantage for you. More a racing choice. You can use them with a latex 'slime' inside that self repairs the tyre but that is messy and makes them heavier-rather negating the point. More an MTB option.

Best solution is usually to buy a less race and more 'urban' tyre like Specialized Armadillo. Continental Gatorskins i've found to be very resistant to punctures too.

Cheers

Bruce

Rod, yes high enough pressure is essential. As I understand it, latex inter tubes are useless - they are extremely leaky and you literary have to fill them up before every ride. IDK about tubeless and self repair - but I almost never get any flats, so no need for them really.

My recommendation for race tyres that can also be used for commute or on less than perfect roads are Continental Gatorskin or Grand Prix 4-Season, there isn't much difference between them and right now I don't even know which one is supposed to be more puncture resistant or durable. I have one on the front and the other on the back wheel, but I don't know which is where. You could also look for Vittoria Pavé.

I am using 700x28 Gatorskins. My LBS recommended them over the GP 4 Season as being more resistance to cuts and flats.

I suspect the gatorskins to be more performance orientated type while the 4 season has a better tread for wet and cold roads. I can certainly vouch for 4 season lasting far longer than four seasons.

I purchased a pair of gatorskin clinchers [non-folding type] about 7 years ago and haven't got around to using them yet so they remain maturing in my storeroom, i may need to buy another bike to put them on : )

Debs 

Debs. You're a genius. I need to go get a set of 650b mountain tires. Then my wife will have to let me get that new Trek Remedy. 

At last my pre-1939  Lucas "King Of The Road" bell gave up this week, as the cog-teeth finally stopped gripping!

I have just bought a new little bell [much smaller] and had a quick shop audition of the various one they had. Most bells only ping these days, and I hate that. With a proper bell you can ring really quietly, by moving the lever slowly, thus being polite in the process!

So they rummaged round in the bottom draw, and found a really nice bell that rings from mezzo-forte to pianissimo!

I also got some old type brake block - for free - as they could not supply me with replacement Fibrax ones. They have the same mounting but are black [made by Fibrax, but discontinued]. And two new Schalbe tubes to carry with me.

The last of the big spenders has just struck.

What was nice was the one guy in the shop was obviously wondering what sort of a bike this could possibly be! A big grin appeared on his face, and I told him to take the old girl for a spin. He though the new handle bar arrangement amounted to the most comfortable he had ever come across, so perhaps those pre-War bike with that swept back type of bar were the right design all along. He grin was more Cheshire Cat-like when he arrived back. as he observed in a faint South African accent that it can bloody go can't it!

ATB from George

All fitted.

Brakes work better, as the blocks are somewhat softer than the old ones. One of the pairs was old Campagnolo! The other was Fibrax fitted three years ago! 

All of them as hard as hell!

ATB from George

Another thing; my little system is sounding amazing today. Perhaps the message is to listen after a real good ride out on a bike that iself is back on the top line! I fettled the Bottom Bracket this morning, and it is amazing how a tiny turn of tightening [traditional cups and balls] brings it back into focus!

Euphoria perhaps!

What to do? Listen the Beethoven or give the bike aother shifty! Choices, choices! Listen to Beethoven now, and take the old girl out properly tomorrow me thinks!

ATB from George

PS: The Carlton is thirty this year!. More than half my age ...

PPS: The new bell is lovely. The old Lucas used to rattle. That rattle was the loudest thing about the bike, so the only noise left is the tyres on the road. That is another sort of music. Musique tarmac, perhaps!

Dear George,

now your bike is better for being belled, braked, bottom bracketed, and barhandled you should bean-bag back on your backside with your best baccy and Beethoven : )

Debs

Oh dura ace, how lovely you are.

Treated myself to a full Dura Ace Groupset.

This is to encourage me to train more for the Etape du tour in July.

Ever since I sold my Cannondale Cad4 bike a few years ago i've wanted a replacement sporty bike specifically for summer and nice weather rides.

My Trek is cheap and cheerful and very useful for a winter bike with mudguards and rack, but it seriously lacks zest on sunny days : (

I'm thinking of buying a BMC, some very nice deals around on last year models.

One i'm looking at has an iSC carbon frame that should be more comfy on longer rides?

It has an Ultegra group set, Conti tubeless tyres, and perfect triple gearing for me, it doesn’t look like I’d need to change a thing.

It's very light too, less than 8 kilos!

Anyone got anything good or bad to say about BMC bikes or frames?

Debs

A friend liked his BMC - SLR 01 I think. My only observation was that it had a non-standard seat post fitting when we tried to change the saddle. He was also not happy with the stem and bars on the factory build but his LBS sorted that for him. He has now switched to a Van Nicolas titanium build that he got for a good price and that was a better spec for randonées. 

my latest spend is a pair of 28 mm Conti 4 Seasons for my rando bike. Still looking for a Campy hubbed wheel set that can be used with disc brakes that doesn't break the bank. 

I did have a lovely music sesh last evening! Beethoven Symphonies Seven, Eight and Nine straight off!

I went out for a gentle ramble today, but there was a surprising amount of breeze, so not a marathon by any means!

ATB from George

Thanks Bruce. Uroš, RaceTripper, Debs.

Will investigate new tyres when the bike goes in for its bi-annual 'revision'. Maybe I just had a run of bad luck...

Cheers

Rod

Winky,

Yes it’s very horrible bad news, let’s hope they’re all okay.

But i pleadingly request to you to help respect this thread as a peaceful and positive debate for forum cyclists, and suggest you kindly delete your post and perhaps start it up in a new thread.

Meanwhile, if you refer to my post above - i’m thinking of buying a new but last years model BMC road bike PR01 frame, and looking for advice, opinions, pros and cons especially from people who have either owned them or had a go on one.

I believe you’ve have experience of BMC? : )

Debs

Agree with Debs. Keep the thread on topic. There's already another thread about cars and bicyclists.

Thanks for reply, Huwge

The frame I’ll considering is a PR01, with WSD geometry.

The stem & bars are Easton, they look okay to me but I have a spare Deda bar&stem i'd be happy to use instead, it’s possible I may need a slightly longer stem anyway.

Debs