Bicycle Bits! - What’s your latest acquisition?

I'll not follow on from the previous post.

Yes, I have a BMC, although it is getting on a bit now (7 years). Nothing to complain about in the least. Very light, great handling, comfy and stiff enough (the model I have, the Pro Machine is admittedly not the stiffest bike out there).They seem good frames. Mine had been very durable with zero problems. Others that have them seem to like them. A good buddy switched to a BMC from a Ridley that he thought he really liked, and rates the BMC as better in every single way.

A guy I ride with had a problem with one novel feature of one specific model that they have now discontinued.

I had a look at the PR01 and I can't see how you'd go wrong. Looks very nice.

Winky,

Thanks for that reply.

The offer i'm drooling over is a 2012 model, but only one size [ awaiting stock ] is 54cm.

My Cannondale was a mans size 54cm, i replaced the stem with 1cm shorter but it always felt a bit big for me. My current Trek is WSD frame of size 54, and have put on a stem 2cm longer than the standard, the saddle is back a way too so the frame maybe slightly too small, although it does feel okay riding and far more comfy than my 'boneshaker' Cannondale.

I’m not sure how consistent and compatible the frame sizing is across the makes, but looking at the fraim geometry of the BMC, it’s strange due to the nature of the Carbon design I guess, has a huge head tube, cross-bar falls steeper down to a lower position on the seat tube. The measured sizes look very slightly larger than my Trek so it maybe perfect for me.

The stock is due in the shop in a few weeks time so when they arrive I’ll pop in to get a feel for the size.

Personally I think the WSD thing is a slight misconception, I used to be happy enough on a 22” frame in the old days before WSD was invented. The geometries seem to suggest a taller woman can use a male bike okay, and a shorter man can happily fit and ride a WSD bike.

But the WSD bike seems to be a great idea for petit women [under 5’2] who otherwise would have no chance finding the correct size off the peg.

I've been spoilt with two custom build 531c frames made for me back in the early 80s, so for a long time i never had to think about what was the best frame size for me  : )

Debs

Frame sizes are deceiving. They measure the one dimension (effective seat-tube) that is the easiest to change (simply by sliding the seatpost). More important is the length of the top tube so you don't have to have an overly long or short stem, and the effective length of the head tube so your bars can be at the right height for you without lots of spacers or weirdly angled stems. You seem to know all that, though. Good luck with it.

One refinement fitted since this photo that does not alter the look, but does make the braking really strong, is a pair of Shimano Tiagra flatbar brake levers that are calibrated to traditional old style callipers.

The brakes are every bit as good with the ancient [but very good] Campag Gran Sport short reach callipers as they were with the original matching Gran Gport drop bar levers. In fact they are a bit stronger I think as one finger braking is easily achieved. A handful of brake lever and I'd be over the handlebar!

Cycles are always work in progress really, though I have found another happy resting place for a few years, hopefully!

ATB from George 

Fizik M3 MTB shoes that I have bought to use on a rando / cross / touring bike with Speedplay Frog pedals as I don't want to be wandering about on road bike cleats. Have been trying them today and yesterday with Shimano cleats and XT pedals on my Orange R8. A big improvement over my old Sidi MTB shoes and comfy like slippers, but super stiff on pedal stroke. It even persuaded me that I might stick to XT pedals. Use Fizik road shoes as well, which are also good for my duck shaped feet - tried a high end Sidi that lets you tighten the heel, but does not really work (for me). 

Have ordered a Kinesis Crosslight wheel set for the new tourer, but still have my eyes on a set based around a Son dynamo for the front wheel and a Chris King or White Industries hub for the rear.

Rod

a) If you have sufficient frame clearance, you may find an improvement in comfort and pun*ure resistance by increasing the tyre width to 25mm. Rumour has it that 25mm provides less rolling resistance as an added benefit.  I'm not familiar with the Lugano tyres however, a friend switched from Gatorskins to Schwalbe Durano Plus a year or so ago for commuting and general cycling and he much prefers the Duranos.  They have proven particularly durable and pun*ure resistant.  During the winter I tend to use the Conti 4 Seasons - they tend to be a bit more expensive (around £30 each is as good as I've found); they aren't the hardest of compounds and can wear/ suffer cuts a bit more than expected.  Essentially they are like a heavier duty 4000s tyre. The reason I like them is that they retain a decent ride quality and they offer good wet weather grip - something the Gatorskins are reknowned for lacking.  Proverbial 'bullet proof' tyres such as Spesh Armadillo and Schwalbe Marathon Plus will last an age however, the trade off is they can have a 'wooden' feel to them and take away some of the pleasure of riding a bike.  They can also be brutes if you ever do have a pun*ure and have to replace a tube due to their tough construction.

b) Latex tubes apparently offer advantages of greater comfort, less rolling resistance (not sure why - think it relates to less rotating mass) and some say better punc*ure resistance. Conversely I have heard of people suffering catastrophic tube failures using latex, for no apparent reason.  I have tried them and have to say I didn't notice any of the plus points (maybe I didn't look hard enough).  I certainly noticed the additional exercise they impose by requiring a top up of air every day, latex being naturally porous.  For me, as an every day proposition, latex tubes are a complete pain because of this.

c) I have only experienced self repairing tubes on a mountain bike.  They do work but I'm not convinced they're the way to go for road bikes where weight is more of an issue.  Must admit I didn't know you could get them for road bikes.

d) Tubeless tyres for road bikes require specific rim profiles, so you'd probably have to buy a new set of wheels to pursue this option.  There are a limited number of tubeless tyres on the market.  I've no experience of them other than reading the odd review which are generally positive highlighting improved ride quality similar to tubular tyres. Bruce provides a comprehensive comment on them earlier in the thread. Personally, until the market expands considerably, I'd rather stick with tyres and tubes and enjoy the greater choice of tyres available.

Peter

A new chain arrived today...

it's amazing how much better it feels [and sounds] after an old knackered chain gets replaced : )

Debs

Quite right, and then it runs in and smooths out even more for a while!

ATB from George

If you remove a link it has a better grip on the bass.

Dear Race,

With the old Campagnolo Super Record gears of the fiction changing era you have to be extremely careful to get the chain exactly the right length or it can jam up, and then I might never grip a bass again!

My next concert is for the Cahmber Choir in Hereford Cathedral on the 9th May! I am looking forward to gripping a bass in public once more, very much indeed!

ATB from George

Yes, if you aren't careful you might get too much treble extension.

As too much treble extension, fortunately I have avoided the NAD experience - though my Nissan has a registration - --- NAD, and we call her the Go NAD at work! I have always been scrupulously careful with my chain lengths!!

Extensions on the double bass are on the lowest string and allow the E string to go two whole tones lower to C, with about eight inches of extra length.

The pride of many a bass player is indeed their extra eight inches, but it is always pitched downwards!

ATB from George

Another puncture on the way home tonight. Four in two weeks. At least I am getting quicker at replacing them, although this is the third on the rear wheel (messier) and only one on the front. I checked the tyre itself very thoroughly, definitely nothing there.

I am now running on double-latex as it were, which at least has the advantage of sounding kinky.

So, I fixed it tonight using a CO2 cartridge. Am I best off draining that and replacing with air or leaving it as it is, given that I need to check and top up before taking the bike out each time anyway?

I shall have to drive tomorrow though, because I am now all out of spare inner tubes, and given my run of luck I can't risk it.

I am seriously beginning to suspect sabotage. It's the only possibility remaining, I simply cannot be that unlucky!

Dear Rod,

Punctures do seem to come in runs.

About four years ago, I had four in a week. One in the front - three at the back.

I changed the tyres, as the old Contis were pretty worn out, and touch wood I have not had one since.

I see Fate planning a little loss of air very soon now I have said that.

ATB from George

Some say the secret is never to spell out pun*ture in posts as it can attract the attention of the pun*ture fairies!!  Go on Rod, when buying new tubes, treat yourself to Durano Plus tyres!

Peter

I wondered why you spelt it so unusually above. Good point. I'll remember that!

I expect a spate now!

ATB from George

PS: The Tiagra brake levers really have sorted out the braking on the Carlton! Never been better or more subtle! Because of the relatively large amount of movement on the levers to get power, it is really easy to brake with one finger, and yet hauled on they really could tip a bike over forward. And yet they brake very precisely in degree. Like Volvo 240 brakes they require deep movement, but you can make this movement with featherlight effort, and at the end there is tremendous power to stop.

Here they are George

Well there is the Carlton set up more or less as a gents commuter cycle!

Except that it can still go fast!

The strange thing is that with the handle bar up like that it makes the bike looks HUGE!

ATB from George

The old Gran Sport callipers are very precise about returning to the exact centre, and so if centred in neutral they can be set very close to the rims. Say just a millimetre! Thus the brakes become both progressive and very quick to act.

Very safe braking indeed.

ATB from George

Your tubes will only ever be as good (or bad) as your tyres! Get yourself some new tyres as you will soon have spent that money on tubes co2 patch kits etc... 

Luganos are the entry level road tyre from Schwalbe. Prob not the best choice for commute during the     'adverse months'

just got a pair of 700x45 SBC Borough XC Armadillo's for this years touring Duties.

Rod,

my experience of using latex inner tubes [a few years ago] was brief, and i don’t mean for briefs but they were certainly pants, the ride is marvellous while they remain inflated which was very short lived. We have to face the facts that latex inner-tubes are notoriously unreliable and with no concerns of longevity.

So i use ordinary inner tubes for my 700c 19-23 size tyres.

These have proven to be far more fit for purpose, although a few years back i did go though a bad batch, the problem seemed to be faulty vulcanising of the valve seal into the tube, typically after pumping up the pressure, this valve seal would split when removing the track pump adaptor from the valve - the deflation was quick and total. This was very annoying due to the newness of the inner tube and the fact it always happened when lycraed & psyched-up to get out on the ride - and then realising the need to bugger about getting hands dirty changing a fairly new inner tube to another new inner tube.

At least it could have been worse, a puncture miles away from home is worse, on a busy highway with little space on the road side to fix it, and then it starts raining…

However, ...i digress.

The point is, if you use a bike for commuting it needs to be reliable.

It’s necessary to strike the right compromise between sporty good fun and dependable.

I would recommend you have two sets of wheels - one stronger safer pair with a few more spokes per wheel, ordinary inner tubes, and rims for ordinary tyres so you may fit something like coni 4 season folding tyres, the rigid non-folders are okay but heavier and harder to get on and off the rim, so folding type far better but a bit more expensive to buy.

Have another pair of fancy wheels of a lighter weight and with sportier tyres which can be kept clean for those summer dry fair weather rides.

Debs

Debs is quite right. Two sets of wheels with heavier dependable tubes and tyres, and another pair with lighter, more sporty rubber!

I have exactly that double pair for my Carlton. In the summer I use the light tyres anyway, but if I find a flat immediately before going to work, I simply swap the flat wheel for the one with  the winter tyre on it.

Tyres are Schalbe Marathons [700c - 28] for reliability, and Schwalbe Blizzard [700c - 23] for summer use. I have not had a pun..ure with either pair in two years. Touch wood.

ATB from George

Just received two new merino wool base layers from Rapha.  The brand has a rather unfortunate image in London due to some preposterous marketing campaigns, but their base layers are amazing especially with 30% discount promotion in anticipation of spring.  Next thing on the list is to arrange for a bike build and bike fit - again in anticipation of spring....

Somewhat sadly, I am thinking of combining my two passions with the purchase of this jersey.

Because it has the words "Barolo" and "Barbaresco" on it! Just not sure of the pink bits...

Last month I finally decided it was time to change the saddles on my Brompton and my Marin Bear Valley.  So, for the Marin, this;

And for the Orange Brompton, the same, but this time in black;

So far so good - both very comfy.