Bicycle Bits! - What’s your latest acquisition?

I don't think it is a question of fitness. The more gears you have, the finer the gaps between the gears are, for a any given overall range. For example 11 speed with a compact crankset gives a great combination of huge range (with low of about 34X28 and high of 50X11) as well as closely spaced gear option in-between.

Obviously having a really low gear helps for those less fit and/or those riding in challenging terrain. It's painful and exhausting to be over-geared for the gradient. Having a really high gear is also useful, but it isn't as big a deal for most people - you can always just coast once you have spun-out your big gear on a decent. You're still going plenty fast!

Also, the close spacing is somewhat useful is you are riding alone, but VERY useful when riding in a group. The thing is, when riding alone, you can fine-tune your cadence (once in the right gear) by simply speeding up or slowing a little. But in a group, you're stuck at the speed of the group. Being able to adjust your gearing to the just-so perfect cadence for that speed is great advantage (I find).

I love my 11 speed in a group, but am happy with fewer gears and wider spacing when riding alone. I have found my 11 speed set-up to be non-finicky. It just works perfectly.

New steed added to the stable Wednesday night. A 2013 Trek Domane 4.5. Also picked up a Lexa SLX for the wife.

I threw on some very old SPD pedals and last night switched the tires to a set of 700x28 Continental Ultra GatorSkins. 

Guys I need help...

Please don't laugh but whilst attempting to remove the crank on my MTB using a crank extractor tool, I have stripped the thread on the non-drive side. I have a replacement crankset so the one fitted is sacrificial.

What do I do other than take a trip to a LBS?

Stripped the the thread on the non-drive side ...

On the bottom bracket parts or in the frame?

If it's the frame then you are in trouble. Probaly enough to require a new bike, unless the fittings are worth transferring to a new frame.

ATB from George

The stripped thread is actually on the crank arm; it's still on the square taper BB.

Take it to the cycle shop, and they'll soon remove the offending parts.

Changing BBs can be a real knuckle breaker! Best of luck with it!

ATB from George

Sorry if this is a silly question but: the thread on the crank is only there to either hold a dust cap [which isn’t strictly needed] or a crank extractor tool. However, before using a crank extractor tool it’s essential to remember to remove the B/B hex bolt first, over-wise the crank extractor tool will push against an immoveable B/B bolt and strip the thread… have you actually removed the B/B bolt?

Debs

To add to Debs excellent advice about checking that you have removed the retention bolt...

You can maybe still get the crank off with a bearing puller that hooks around the back of the crank itself. (Much) cruder would be to wedge the crank off with a cold chisel. I'd only do this on a cheap bike with an all steel BB, bearing cups, lockrings etc.You could also grind it off, being careful not to damage the spindle if you plan to re-use it.

If you can get both the bearing cups loosened and removed, you actually only need to remove one crank to get the whole thing off, too. Pull the drive side off, remove that bearing cup (left-hand thread!), then see if you can't get the other side cup off from behind the frozen crank. The lockring is easy, but if the cup is tight, there won't be much room for tools other than a proper c-spanner. You could unscrew it slowly with a small pin-punch and light hammer taps.

You no-doubt know this now, but the trick with crankpullers is to back-off the centre screw completely, then screw the body fully home into the crank before using the centre screw to pull the cranks. If you try to extract the crank by just screwing in the body with centre screw pushing on the crank spindle, it will more-than-likely strip.

Reading Winki's and Deb's replies, I was thinking along the same lines as both, but was extremely reluctant to suggest anyone tries a hammer on their bike unless they are experienced.

I fitted a headset on my Carlton without the correct drifts, and it was painstaking work with a piece of hardwood and a toffee hammer. One error and it would have meant getting another pair of cups and cones, and the set itself was not cheap being a thirty year old steel cupped Super Record, new old stock. Very nice of course, but it could go so wrong doing what I did.

More than three years on the headset is like silk and has never been adjusted since fitting. Quite amazing how good some components are ...

But I would never suggest to someone else to do what I did.

Many years ago I did exactly what Debs describes. I pulled the threads out an old Shimano crank arm [non-drive side as it happens] because I had not taken the retaining bolt out first. 

It is a learning curve for sure! The best bit was that I did take the bolt out on the drive side before taking that one off first!

ATB from George

Thanks all for the replies.

LBS did it for me this morning.  I had taken the retaining bolts out but my extractor tool was just not man enough for the job (neither was I!).

The chap in the shop effectively tapped a new thread with his (oversized) crank extractor and it popped off easily.

cranks are still useable but I have a new set to fit...now the fun begins. Thanks again for the advice.

Ironically, I just found this thread today just after I had fitted new brake blocks to my aging Rayleigh Activator. I've been putting up with poor squealing brakes for a long time now and decided enough was enough and thought I'd give my poor old (about 20 years old in fact!) bike a spring clean and service.  

It still got its original tyres, inner tubes, everything in fact, except a different saddle from the original, so it doesn't owe me much! 

Anyway, I bought the brake blocks/pads and replaced them and fine tuned gears, brakes etc, then went out and did about 10 miles round the lanes nearby, only to realise the crank shaft bearing is now well and truly on the way out!  Hadn't really noticed until today, but must have been on the way out for a while if guess.

So I could look at changing the bearings, but the front suspension is also shot now and I think it may be time to finally call it a day.  When I spoke to the chap in the bike shop and he asked what I had, he did subtly suggest I may benefit from a newer model now!  He did also point out the Rayleigh Activator wasn't one of Rayleigh's finest moments either.....oh well bit late now eh, but it did last 20 years!

Anyway, I'm looking for a decent hybrid which is good on rough roads, country lanes and tracks. It won't go properly "off road" but the roads round here will ruin a racing bikes wheels on its first outing.

It will probably be jet washed off fairly often throughout the winter months to, so nothing that will rust!

Does anyone have any any recommendations of models to look at on a very tight budget of around £350 to £400?

Jason,

Decathlon have some good deals, or for a bit more have a look at Genesis or Whyte....

Good hunting.

Joff

When I bought my Trek Domane a couple weeks ago, it came with a 42 cm bar. The fitter measured me for a 40 cm bar. At the  time he offered to swap the bars. But it wasn't free so I said I would wait to see what my options are and how the bike felt to ride.

I did a 60 mile ride on Sunday, and confirmed what my fitter said. My handlebar is too wide and I started to get some neck/shoulder pain after about 40 miles.

I just ordered an upgraded handlebar: a Ritchey Superlogic Logic II carbon 40 cm. Should be here next week.

I just replaced the factory brakes on my 2012 focus variado 1.0 with Ultegra 6700 brakes, very nice too, just feels right.

Considering some bespoke wheels for an Alpe d'Huez ascent at the end of May.... Gulp.

phil

Entry level Specialized Crosstrail

I'd be inclined to spend a bit of time looking on ebay to see what comes up - with patience, you may well bag yourself a bargain if brand new is not important to you.

Peter

Joff, Singlespeed,

Thanks very much for you recommendations, I shall give them a look.

Northpole,

If I can't find something suitable that I like, I may just do that.

Thanks to all.

Rode home tonight on a Brooks Cambium demo saddle. Certainly no where near as armchair like as my B17 but not too bad as a commuter....

http://www.brooksengland.com/cambium/

I just added another Fizik Alliante saddle to the stable of bikes. I got a new one to match the color scheme of my new road bike, and I have the Alliante XM (MTB version) on my mountain bike. My wife got the previous one I had for road.These saddles are really comfortable. Did a 60 mile ride last weekend and had zero discomfort from the seat.

I also now have my new carbon handlebar installed. While I was doing that I upgraded all my shift/brake cables to the better Shimano coated poly-coated cables. Handlebars are wrapped with Lizard Skins DSP 2.5mm.

Saddles never fail to amaze me - I have an Alliante on my commuter bike and, whilst it generally feels okay; when I get on it the morning after a decent ride on my Spesh Toupe, the lack of cut out makes its presence felt - and not in a good way!  And yet there are many people who highly rate the Alliante.  One of the most difficult areas to offer anyone advice on!

Have you used the Lizard Skins tape before?  I am thinking of fitting it to my new bike build but am dithering due to the price in UK.  Appreciate your view on it.  Thanks.

Pete

This is my first road bike in over 30 years, so I don't have other tape to compare to. When I bought this bike it was an inventory closeout. It had white tape that was dirty from test rides and such, so I wanted it re-taped. The LBS recommended the Lizard Skin. They also had Fizik, Bontrager, and some other kinds to choose from. 

I have no complaints. Feels good to me.

Well, after some looking around at some of the suggested bikes here, my work has decided to run the cycle to work scheme, which looks rather attractive and opens ups the budget somewhat.

At first I tried looking at the entry level Specialised Crosstrail and some equivalents, which were very nice, but then I was offered a new 2013 Whyte Chiltern at a very attractive reduced price and this was too tempting!  So it's reserved and I'm just waiting on the letter of collection for the scheme and I can collect it.

The bike pretty much excels my requirements, but I would like to acquire some extra tyres suited for faster road use on occasions.

The bike is fitted with 700c rims and currently all terrain 700/35c folding tyres with flat guard.

Any ideas if something like the "Continental Ultra Sport Folding 700c x 23mm Tyre" would fit and be better suited for longer road rides?

Things have moved on some since my old Rayleigh Activator I've been using for years. I'm not even sure if these tyres still use inner tubes or the tyres and rims are now air tight?  

Those tyres will be a good all-round fast road tyre. Not as durable or puncture resistant as what is fitted but definitely quicker. Conti tyres are usually good quality. They will fit fine. You will need a good pump as a narrow road tyre that will need about 7bar approx.(depending on your weight) or you'll get pinch punctures.

They do need inner tubes.

Some road wheels can take a tubeless tyre-I have some DT Swiss that do it very well and others can be adapted but general tubeless is more used on MTB tyres-and even then is far from ubiquitous

Enjoy your new bke

Correction. I just checked the Whyte website. I'm not sure the stock rims are designed for a narrow road tyre of just 23c. May well need to check with the shop but I suspect you will need a slick MTB tyre of bigger volume.

You don't want 23mm. Too narrow. 32mm is a sweet compromise for a bike like that. It will roll plenty fast, be durable, long-lasting and comfortable. I think Schwalbe make some of the best tyres for for all-round utilitarian use.

Yes, check with the shop, but you're likely not limited to MTB tyres. "29 inch" and 700C are the same size in terms of bead diameter. But your rims may be too wide for a 23mm to be a good choice.