What's the Best Oak Finish

Hi Mike

we had an oak staircase fitted a couple of years ago, and we asked the question to the carpenter that built it and fitted it for us.

He suggested a product called Osmo, which is a wax-oil mix, and which we have since used.

It is very easy to apply and is hard wearing, though we do re-apply each year.

It really brings the grain of the wood out in a lovely way, and can be bought with a non slip additive.

When we reapply, we simply clean the stairs down and paint straight back on top - easy.

No sanding down etc.

Why not varnish?

The reason he gave us was that it takes longer to apply and dry, changes colour over time, needs to be sanded back down to the wood for reapplication, and can get very slippy.

I have to say Im glad we went with his recommendation.

Have a look on the internet at the product I mention and maybe talk it through with your builder.

Hope this helps.

Hi Mike,

I feel varnish is least appropriate for high traffic areas such as stairs, even in domestic settings.  This is mainly due to the difficulty of of doing localised patch up, when small areas start to show wear or get damaged.  However if you do go with varnish my recommendations are the two extremes

1   diluted PVA as it doesn't discolour and the thin coats don't build up too much (but it needs to be re-done regularly)

2   2-pot polyurethane it's really hard wearing, but a real pain to re-do (after about 5 years)

Wax can work well, but you need to be careful as some waxes can leave a more slippery surface particularly after time, as they 'build up'.  All subsequent waxes must be compatible* with previous layers (solution chemistry).

In my opinion, for stairs. oil wins.  However, really careful preparation is essential (very fine sanding with the grain to avoid raising it).  Compatibility* of subsequent layers is still important, but not so critical as with wax.  Incidentally, for the first year or so oil needs to be re-applied a few times to fully saturate the surface layers and build better protection, after that it's yearly.

For both wax and oil, the finish will gradually darken as muck and gubbins get bound into the wood.  Occasionally (5-10 years perhaps), rubbing down with fine wire wool and oil, then fine sanding to flatten the grain again, will combat that if you want to.

Oil/wax mixes don't combine the properties, it's just a more convenient way of applying wax.  The oil absorbs leaving the wax on the surface.

* Silicones are almost completely incompatible with all natural oils or waxes.

P.S. respect for remaining polite and considerate to others during the work!

Tell me about it !!  it was not just the stairs - new entrance door brickwork incl side pillars & lintel, digout & rebuild threshold into 30cm of hall floor, all new new door, install false & angled ceiling in stairwell, re-route (straighten out) lower section of stairs, re plaster for all the above & re-skim the hall & stairwell ,  strip & re-lay entire hall floor, prep for & install floor tiles to 5m front door section.

All I did myself was the stair lighting (dimmable LED) & changed three single power sockets to doubles.   Fortunately I know & trust the builder & his guys to do a real top end job.  But even so I found it best to go do other stuff away from the house.

Next is the paint (me)  & finally carpet (not me)    50/50 it might be done before holidays

Hi Mike -

About 12 years ago, I used Watco Danish Oil on all of our oak trim, including handrails. It's a penetrating oil/varnish mix that soaks into the open pores and then hardens. All looks as new today, and it has been easy to maintain with light sanding and re-applying (i.e., it blends perfectly, even years later). Might give everything a fresh coat at the 20 year mark, but will wait and see.

Handrails have become smoother and a bit shinier over the years with use. The only thing I did not use the oil for was stair treads and risers. Didn't want to be constantly maintaining them, so I used a matte poly finish instead. That's also turned out well, but took a lot more time and care to apply. I found several thin coats were best.

Good luck!

Hook

Mike here is an interesting article...

http://www.cvrda.org/boats/hin...ishing/materials.htm

Thanks Huge,  I need to own up that I'm from a marine engineering background & picked up my love of wood & how to look after it during that time.   Although my work & training was mostly military, part of the business was private luxury & in those days it was mostly all wood.  7 coats of oil based varnish was the minimum,  14 was top notch high end.   & watching the skills of those guys in the prep'ing, the endless rubbing down & the fastidious brush care has stuck in my toolbox.    

I just need to get this oil/wax/varnish decision sorted before Monday.  TBH I was always going varnish until the builder pitched me that oily curved ball.  

It seems oil is the way to go according to this & a furniture restorers forum.  I've arranged to go to a furniture restorer who is based in the area tomorrow a.m. & he will give me a short lesson/demo on how to do it & the various sheens & tints. 

We had every internal door replaced a couple of months ago as part of a general update plan.

The doors were oak and the fitter recommended water based matt finish clear varnish.

I decided to do it myself as I had nothing much on at the time.

Big mistake - 15 doors = 30 sides and with 3 coats a side = 90 applications.

I was bored out of my brains doing that lot.

Having said that, the varnish was dead easy to apply and the results do look good with a finish almost identical to the untreated wood. Evidently, it will never change colour and should outlast me.

Mick

90 applications  -------- I feel the pain

I had my downstairs doors replaced with oak a year ago.  I used a friend who owns a kitchen/bathroom install business with his pro tools - planers, mortice & hinge cutters made it a breeze.  We then took them away to his shop where we sprayed varnish in satin matt. 30 mins drying time between 4 coats, the painting & re-hanging was all done in a day   :-))

However the next week was the 7 upstairs doors. We (she) had selected the same door design but in repainted white & not something my buddy would risk applying his baked powder paint colours on. So after we had fitted & then removed all the fittings, I set about hand painting Satin White.  Fortunately the flattish door design meant I was able to use a roller for 90%,  but 16/24 hr drying periods & 3 coats took best part of a week.    

Just had  very pleasant hour with a furniture restorer talking wood finishes.  

My decision is oil & I've even bought a can - Osmo Polyx "Satin"

He showed how he does it & reasons why for my new machined wood

- apply 1st coat before rubbing down with fine 180-240 sandpaper & followed by superfine 600-800 to polish the items like hand rails only.  

- apply 2nd coat

So thats it folks, just the floor tiles & staircase trim to finish - then a wait for the stair case glass.

Thanks for your input

Good choice Mike - I can thoroughly recommend it.