Adjusting Snaxo 3-6 setting for Isobariks.

Seems I should have done a bit more reading before posting. I now see that the adjustments are only to the levels and not the frequency Xover levels so I am barking up the wrong tree.

I will continue playing around with positioning and stands.

Fredster, the frequency crossover points are set at the factory. If yours has been factory set for Isobariks then you're good to go. If not (i.e. set up for DBLs or NBLs), then they should be returned to Naim for adjustment to Isobarik spec. The only end-user change that can be made is in setting the levels for each drive unit.  Any other discussion regarding changing frequency crossover points is outside of forum AUP.

Yes understood Richard, I am doing some more reading on tweaking those levels and it seems it may be of use to me after all. I had just wrongly jumped to the conclusion the adjustment was to frequency crossover levels rather than output levels. I have some reading of past posts to do on Brik 'tuning' from the sounds of it !

Richard Dane posted:

Fredster, the frequency crossover points are set at the factory. If yours has been factory set for Isobariks then you're good to go. If not (i.e. set up for DBLs or NBLs), then they should be returned to Naim for adjustment to Isobarik spec. The only end-user change that can be made is in setting the levels for each drive unit.  Any other discussion regarding changing frequency crossover points is outside of forum AUP.

Just curious Fredster, as Mr Richard Dane has pointed out, you could increase the level of the Bass driver.

Have you attempted these internal adjustments?

Following quote from 2011 post as it relates to Snaxo 362:

"I am not sure that the crossover points, and especially gain settings for an Isobarik Snaxo would be those of the DBLs....if that were the case the the DBL PAXO passive crossovers could be used in place of the Linn ones. 

There is certainly no harm to make (small) adjustments in the internal settings, especially if the RAZ markings are still legible to revert to the original settings. Just remember that to increase the level, you have to turn the trimpots *anticlockwise* rather than the clockwise fashion found in all volume pots. Do it no more than 1/16 a turn at a time. "

Hope that was helpful!

Allante93!

Thank Allante,  after reading some more I will try some small adjustments and see what happens.

I will also double check with Naim that my SNAXO is in fact a Brik one ( that is what it was sold to me as ).

With regard to my initial error, I had just assumed that the adjustments made would be slight changes in frequency settings and was thinking if I adjusted the bass frequency range up a little it would put more of the mid bass through the larger driver. I now realise I was looking at it the wrong way and in fact it is more of a volume adjustment. I will try that now but to me that would logically increase the lower bass frequencies too, which is not really the effect I am looking for, but I will have a play and see what the results are.

mark the adjustment pots with a pen before making any, you can always go back, I think you will be able to achieve what you are looking for by adjusting the levels.

Positioning and stands will also make a big difference.

Yes I still have a little playing to do with positioning, so far I have settled for about 2 inches from rear wall and only slight toe-in. Not the easiest thing to play with thanks to the size and weight !

What I am also doing is experimenting with stand fillings as I have taken out the X-overs.

I was Active with Linn, until my Karin went out, and Linn Crossover with Bingo Card also went out, sold off my LK 280's, and now I'm trying it with Naim! 

Anyhow, my Briks were owned by the Dealer, purchased them back in the 1993! Wow how time flies! But they used foam, something like sofa foam cut out and placed it right of over the Crossover, it kinda molded over the the entire internal surface. I never have removed mine even when I was 
Aktiv. 

I think there were a two or three options at the time, but if the Dealership chose this method, what the heck! 

Good luck with you Active System! 

I can't wait, when I purchase my Snaxo, and start playing with the PODS, In your case I would probably, Adjust around the center, (don't adjust the Mids)

then Counter Clockwise 1/16 ( one unit increase ) with the Base Driver, if the highs were ok maybe even Clockwise one unit with the Tweeter, etc.... until I reached the desire effect! 

That's the fun part! 

Allante93! 

Fredster posted:

I am having some issues with a lack of upper bass in my active Briks set up. I was wondering if it might help if I made small adjustments to the frequency settings and raised the bass-mid changeover levels slightly to put a bit more through the bass drivers. I have not actually messed around inside a SNAXO before so this is purely theoretical at the moment but I know you can adjust them for different speakers.

When I used to run Active Briks I found my Snaxo pre-sets were way-way wrong and had to adjust - to very good effect!

I turned Bass up and tweeter down - both rather a lot, and left mid on the pre-set middle pot setting.

Have a go - my advice is to tweak bass for best percussion on drums and HF for best image. Iterate back and forth until you have it sounding good, leave the lid off the snaxo for a day or two to re-visit the adjustments if need be - then put the lid back on, as it sounds a lot better that way!

Others will recommend using measurement, but I also did all that and found final tweak by ear always required. It is immediately clear to me when this has not been done - I will say no more.

Have a go - take care to use plastic pot-trimmer - and you will be pleased.

DB.

Darke Bear posted:

When I used to run Active Briks I found my Snaxo pre-sets were way-way wrong and had to adjust - to very good effect!

I turned Bass up and tweeter down - both rather a lot, and left mid on the pre-set middle pot setting.

Have a go - my advice is to tweak bass for best percussion on drums and HF for best image. Iterate back and forth until you have it sounding good, leave the lid off the snaxo for a day or two to re-visit the adjustments if need be - then put the lid back on, as it sounds a lot better that way!

Have a go - take care to use plastic pot-trimmer - and you will be pleased.

DB.

Thanks DB, always nice to pick up information.

Just curious, is the adjustment procedure different between the 3-6 & 362 ?

Reason I'm asking, never heard of plastic pot-trimmer!

My next purchase 362 & SCDR, then I'm Active!

BTW, any word on you 500 DR date?

Allante93!

Thanks all, I am handy with wood, so it will be an oak trimmer for me ! 

Is there a step up in quality with a 362 over a 3-6 ? All my gear is Olive and I understand it is best not to mix. 

I am experimenting with a bunch of stand fillers.  Fibre, foam, rigid cavity insulation, wood (oak) and concrete. Will let you all know the results

I will shortly be ordering a brand new build Isobarik 362 from the factory through my dealer.

Is it better than the 3-6 hell yes,its the biggest improvement over any previous Isobarik Naxo/ Snaxo I have heard. 

I've moved through them all over the years, Naxo3 ( thanks to another forum member for long term loan) Chrome Bumper 36  to Olive 3/6 to 362( in a set up many years ago) each slightlybetter but 36 to 362 being the largest step improvement.

After finding a beautiful pair of Isobariks recently worthy of the investment to go active I'm doing it unconventionally via a Plinius preamp ( as brand I stumbled over recently and am so impressed with their sound)  New Snaxo 362 HicapDR into 3 Linn Lk280s.

Fun times.

Plinius is a new one to me, but for the moment I will stick with my classic 52/SC 250 135 combo.    But it sounds like I should start looking for an isobarik configured 362. The never ending road of upgrade !

I was playing a Kenny Wayne Shepherd album last night and its amazing how real and live my set up now sounds. Maybe I am getting close to the end of that road..... more likely just a parking lot for a while.

Rome wasn't built in a day, enjoy your music!

Nac 52/'SC -2

Nap 135 - 6

Snaxo 362/SCDR -2

I think I now recall when you were putting this System together, you've come a long way.

The only upgrades I've made since then, have been Bi-Amp to Tri-Amp, and Fraimlite. Next purchase, Snaxo 362/SCDR & Burndy!

Counting your Boxes, I have you at 10, not including any source. It might be time to focus on a racking System!

 What type of racking do you have?

It would be nice if Naim could put an Olive plate on the Snaxo 362 and SCDR!

That classic 6-pack Olive look is Nice.

 Check, who knows!

Allante93!

I am running slightly different, I only have 2 135s for the treble, the mid and bass are on 250s. I found the 250 goes lower than a pair of 135s so prefer that. If I got a 362 I could do 4 x 135s  and just use 1 x 250 for the bass, but the socket arrangement on a 3-6 doesn't allow that combination ( maybe does with custom cables ).

Yes I have come a long way from 82/hicap/180 with MA gr20s. I added a Prefix in there too, what a great step up that was, along with a custom made 3 point acrylic base for the LP12. Maybe one day I will splash out and try a TW deck.

As for equipment rack, I am already on to that. I currently have it on shelves in an alcove, but I have run out of room and the cables are just stuffed in rather than dressed. I have had trouble with the 250s overheating so need to sort out a proper rack. I have a thread on here asking about materials and positioning. I have a couple of options to try there, I am planning on using ventilated 25mm ply with 40mm solid oak legs with spikes and cups, probably 4 legs for the main frame for stability and then with a separated 3 foot ( might use spike, might use wooden dome with sorbathane washer )  shelf for each level. Shelf material I am going to try 12mm slate vs 4mm mdf 12mm polystyrene sandwich vs 12mm corian. I will veneer all the ply edges and maybe spray the legs black or graphite.  The lp12 will be on a wall mount, hopefully in the room next door for added isolation. As you say that stack of olive boxes should look really nice.

After that I have to renovate the briks, veneering them and new covers. I have put a new 'runner' of oak along the bottom of each side of the speakers as the spikes have messed up the original bottom edges. I have just stuck an aluminium strip to the bottom of that to see if that does anything, but I think the slight sinking of the spikes into oak will give a firmer base, unless I try 3 spikes instead of 4. that would be for another time ! I then have to think about if it would be a good idea to replace the drivers. they must be old and tired. Everyone must have read the ebay guys upgrade service, I have not seen anything about whether such changes are work or not. I wont do that unless I know its worthwhile.

That's pretty much my Naim story so far.

I had a chat with the guy you are referring to Fredster. Seems like a decent sort. I hope to get up to his place and actually listen to some of his "upgraded" Briks and hear for myself what the effect is. Something to look forward to later this year.

Marksnaim posted:

I had a chat with the guy you are referring to Fredster. Seems like a decent sort. I hope to get up to his place and actually listen to some of his "upgraded" Briks and hear for myself what the effect is. Something to look forward to later this year.

Wow Fredster, Marksnaim, and Allante, Briks Anyone! 

I had no space Problem with Linn's Active System, the only PS required was the dirak for the Linn Crossover. 

But with Naim's PS's, I thought it would be wise to invest in some shelving! 

Passive Bi Amp Briks!  Bi- Amped with 200 & 250.2  Heating Problems. So I upgraded to 3 x 250.2's. 

Passive Tri Amp with 3 x 250.2's,  Tweeter, and Mids are always cool as a Cucumber, but when playing for an hour, and banging at 10 o'clock or 11,  My 2015 Nap 250.2 can get warm, Never a thermal shut off, or close to it. However, I did purchase some real cool battery fans, which I never use now! 

Eyeballing an SCDR, if I make the move, I will be able to do the HCDR vs SCDR in my own environment, and if no real gains I can keep the HCDR on the 282.

Cdx2/282/HCDR/ 3 x 250/ Standard Naim IC Throughout and  Linn K-20/Nac A4 

Next Purchse SCDR, then Active with Snaxo 362! 

Please keep us informed Marksnaim, when you get situated with your Snaxo 362 & SCDR & Burndy! 

Out! 

Allante93!