Bi-wiring speakers / using jumpers

I'd suggest that you will get a better connection with an F connection using four banana plugs. If you use bare wire they will tarnish and you can't screw the  bare wire terminals really, really tight. 

Absolute agree on the bare cable tarnishing - all copper oxidises.  Soldering into banana plugs really helps in this respect.       Bare cable can become loose & cause connection & disconnect issues.  Banana plugs are the most reliable & easy to use.  My speakers have the same terminal plates as your PCM's,  I've always applied the "F" connection design as posted by Hungry Halibut.  I once used the Naim banana plugs but had dissimilar metal issues with the nickel pins & gold plate,  I've since moved to Deltron gold pins & no more problems.   Also I've tried various connections, bass first, cross etc,  all very easy with my set up.  Cable is Chord Odyssey which is silver plated copper & that does not oxidise.  

Simon,

Remove the 4 screws securing the terminal/crossover assembly, remove and solder cables between the terminals. You then simply insert the single plug into either socket.

It's the quickest, cheapest and best way to do it.

 Make sure you do + to + and – to -.

That's what i did (on a spare pair of crossovers). Far neater than all of that F type faffing. 

Manufacturers should stop making biwire speakers at all

b_lund posted:

Manufacturers should stop making biwire speakers at all

 

Plus One

My Royd RR1’s where shipped from the factory with a soldered internal link between the terminals. The instructions advise using single wired, but if biwired is required cut the links.

 Why all manufactures don’t do the same is a mystery. It’s a no brainer.

Yeah but too complicated for the masses I guess

Joe knew what he did, he gave way the demand for biwire but solved elegant

reAnimate posted:

 

 * Stripped back the last 8cm of each speaker cable down to the wires, twisted them

 

As already mentioned, soldered banana plugs are best, but either way, if you must strip that much wire, seal any exposed copper with shrink wrap, or perhaps self-amalgamating tape, to prevent corrosion and reduce the chance of shorting the cables.

Thanks, hadn't thought about oxidation.

Bi-wire terminals are mixed blessing. I think it is too short sighted to deride them out of hand. Sure, I have zero need for them now but there is a bigger picture here. There are a couple of benefits:

• It does allow customers to bi-amp for power purposes. If your current amp is not up to the challenge for the speakers you really want (but from a quality perspective is a suitable level), it is often far more cost effective to get 2 amps (or add a power amp to an integrated) than buy that powerhouse amp that is needed to it alone. Case in point, 2xNAP250DR is still MUCH less than a NAP500. Yes the 500 still sounds much better, but that isn't the issue. You can now drive those speakers you want propery. Bi-amping doesn't sound worse than single amping, though if power is not the issue it might not sound any better.
• For speakers that support activer Xover versions, it is the only logical stepping stone. Say you wanted active DBLs. Would you really want the expense of buying all the power amps, active Xover and related Xover power supply and speaker modification at the same time? No. In those scenarios you go bi/tri-amp first and staggar the upgrade.
• Lesser entry level, mid range gear from other manufacturers really does manage to get some benefit from simple bi-wiring. Plenty of lower end speakers (with lesser Xovers) and lower end amps definately sound better bi-wired. The benefit soon vanishes one the speakers have a better Xover and the amp has better current delivery.

So, yes, my new speakers only have a single set of terminals which doesn't bother me since my amp is fine with this. But I had planned on eventually using these in the dining room in the future off my UQ2 which is not up the challenge. My plan to add a NAP100 and share the load is now not going to happen.

My ProAc's have biwire capacity and have a factory rod between the terminals.  I found some instructions about diagonal bi wiring on the Nordost forum and have been very pleased with aftermarket jumper cables.    It may not work with your speakers but I have been pleased with it.  I have not tried the F connection.

Skip posted:

My ProAc's have biwire capacity and have a factory rod between the terminals.  I found some instructions about diagonal bi wiring on the Nordost forum and have been very pleased with aftermarket jumper cables.    It may not work with your speakers but I have been pleased with it.  I have not tried the F connection.

Likewise with my smaller (D20r) ProAcs. Chord Signature jumpers and wiring diagonally have produced discernible improvements. 

b_lund posted:

Manufacturers should stop making biwire speakers at all

PMC have taken your advice ... they new twenty5 series have dropped the bi-wire capability.