Is my CDX2 headed to AVOptions?

Something is wrong, that's for certain. Usually, a failing mech shows up with the player not reading discs or showing an error, or skipping. The squealing  noise is unusual.

I would send it back for repair and service if that's never been done.

Frank.

Check for a loose SNAIC somewhere in the system.  Power down first though, or at least disconnect the speaker leads.

Is the squeak from the player or from the speakers. If the player, is the puck that clamps the CD to the drive platter ok ?

Is it a puck with rubbers or the later one?

Richard Dane posted:

Check for a loose SNAIC somewhere in the system.  Power down first though, or at least disconnect the speaker leads.

Thanks Richard, I will follow through on the above.

Listening this very moment, it appears to happen on the slower cuts, timing issues. Out of the 10 or 11 tracks, I can guess the 2 tracks where the skipping will crop up. 

@ James & Yet:

I thinking the source, the player, the CD.

And yes it is the later MK I, with the 1202 VAM.

The plastic puck, no more rubber o rings version.

My model is the 2008, right before the 2009 MK II.

Thanks again, I hope it's a matter of loose connections, I dread the following:

"During service all CD players receive full diagnostic testing, cleaning inside and out

including the critical CD tray area, all around inspection, laser current setting, firmware

updates, final test by listening

$1425 USD

Vs

C20: CDX2 - CD mechanism replacement (for VAM 1202 mech version *)

$735 USD"

The Forum at it's Best!

Thanks!

Allante93!

Must be the sign from the Gods - time to take up streamimg

yeti42 posted:

Is it a puck with rubbers or the later one?

Yeah, if it's the puck with the rubbers, then the squeal is most likely the CD slipping. I used to get this occasionally on my original CDX2. Easily fixed by GENTLY teasing out the rubbers a little with a tooth pick. All squealing stopped and I felt the SQ improved a little as well.

Simon

Allante says it's an all plastic puck, a few posts up.

C.

Christopher_M posted:

Allante says it's an all plastic puck, a few posts up.

C.

Yes, but I did take Richard's Advice, and disconnect the Sniacs and powered the System down. Upon careful inspection, I did notice the 5 pin din connection at the HCDR was not the most pristine. The rubber was not fitted firmly against the metal din connection, wasn't much I could do straighten it out and unplugged the digital airport express. The other three 4 pin din connectors were pristine, and to boot I would imagine they only transfer power, whereas the 270 degree 5 pin transfers power and signal.

Question:

Does Chord manufacture a replacement, 5 pin 270 degree din for Naim's Snaic?

My 5 pin 180 degree Lavender is pristine, just purchased it brand new, January 2015.

Range:

Music

 Sarum

Signature

 Shawline

Clearwater

Of course, Music would be out of the question!

Signature or Sarum which could be matched at the source down the road.

I might get lucky, doing some intinst listening this very moment, and no skips yet!

Who knows, digital interference with airport express, or faulty Sniac!

Fingers crossed.

 Allante93!

Allante93 posted:

Does Chord manufacture a replacement, 5 pin 270 degree din for Naim's Snaic?

I've no idea. Would it not be simpler to either get your existing Naim cable repaired or get a new one from your Naim dealer?

C.

Christopher_M posted:

Allante93 posted:

Does Chord manufacture a replacement, 5 pin 270 degree din for Naim's Snaic?

I've no idea. Would it not be simpler to either get your existing Naim cable repaired or get a new one from your Naim dealer?

C.

Yes Chris, but you know how we're, always trying to improve are System.

Music, I think not.

SL, I think not.

But if I could find someone upgrading, to the aforementioned, I would be more than happy to give it a go!

But more than likely, I will be replacing that Snaic, if that is the case!

And you are correct, that is the route!

1st replacement of Sniac

2nd choice between $1400 complete service and $700 mechanism replacement.

 BTW it just skipped on track 10, oh no!

Allante93!

Once the Snaic5 is sorted out, you want an XPS on your CDX2 and two less NAP250.2s don't you?! I'm not too sure about the merits of trying to recreate a nineties vision of audio paradise. I'd be trying to get the system as good as it can be, now. Just an opinion.

C.

I have read the thread twice and I am confused.

If the squeal is coming from the CD player itself and not from the loudspeakers, then it's a mechanical issue with the CDX2 and won't be anything to do with the condition of the interconnects. A laser failing isn't going to give you squeals and I think it is more likely to be the puck slipping, as Simon says.  If you are getting track skipping and jumping, especially if this isn't consistently associated with the same place on a CD, then this could still be the puck slipping but otherwise would suggest a fault with the CD transport mechanism.

If the squeal is coming from the speakers, then this might well be an interconnect problem and if it only occurs when you play CDs then the CD interconnect is the likely cause. You could buy a cheap din to din interconnect and see whether the problem goes away, before spending lots of money on a high end interconnect that you may not need.

if the squeal is coming from the loudspeakers and you are getting occasional track skips, then you probably have to look at both of the above possibilities because you probably have at least two unrelated faults.

best

David

David Hendon posted:

I have read the thread twice and I am confused.

If the squeal is coming from the CD player itself and not from the loudspeakers, then it's a mechanical issue with the CDX2 and won't be anything to do with the condition of the interconnects. A laser failing isn't going to give you squeals and I think it is more likely to be the puck slipping, as Simon says.  If you are getting track skipping and jumping, especially if this isn't consistently associated with the same place on a CD, then this could still be the puck slipping but otherwise would suggest a fault with the CD transport mechanism.

If the squeal is coming from the speakers, then this might well be an interconnect problem and if it only occurs when you play CDs then the CD interconnect is the likely cause. You could buy a cheap din to din interconnect and see whether the problem goes away, before spending lots of money on a high end interconnect that you may not need.

if the squeal is coming from the loudspeakers and you are getting occasional track skips, then you probably have to look at both of the above possibilities because you probably have at least two unrelated faults.

best

David

Hi Dave, I'll give it another go.

Perhaps squeal wasn't the best word, but timing issues, off pace, skips, like an LP.

So yes coming from the Speakers. Richard Dane suggested I Power System down, and check connections.

So far good, you and Richard are on the same page. The Lavender was purchased in January of 2015, and in pristine condition.

Now the 5 pin 270 degree Snaic, which deals with power and signal, is not pristine, a little loose around metal din at HCDR.

Programmed the Cdx2 for 8 tracks, I would say, 3 or 4 incidents out of 4 rounds, not bad, but you know how we strive for perfection.

So the cheap source din is probably eliminated with the pristine Lavender.

And Chris and you are correct, repair or replace the Snaic for starters. Just entertaining the thought of Chord Signature TA source IC, coupled with Chord Signature TA Snaic.

But that's down the road !

Remember, I'm an Active fan, still reminiscing the fond days of Linn's full blown Aktiv Briks.

My System

So you gentleman are correct, that $700 on posh cables, will more than likely be dedicated towards:

SCDR & SNAXO

But yes Dave, Repair Cheap Snaic, before dishing out $1400 for Cdx2 1202 VAM overhaul.

Or for that matter, $700 for CD mechanism replacement.

 Thanks to all for your concern.

 I will post once I've repaired or replaced my Snaic.

In the meantime, check out Patricia Barbara Blue Cafe, track 2, WOW!!!!

Remember, this hobby of ours, is relevant to one's listening experiences. 

That's the good thing, can't miss, what you haven't heard.

Allante93!

Allante93 posted:

Remember, I'm an Active fan, still reminiscing the fond days of Linn's full blown Aktiv Briks.

Ok, now I understand why you have three (at the moment, passive) NAP250.2s. Still reckon you could use an XPS though. An opinion only, we've all got them. Looking forward to hearing that your Snaic 5 is repaired or you have a new one, and harmony is restored in your NaimWorld.

C.

Christopher_M posted:

Allante93 posted:

Remember, I'm an Active fan, still reminiscing the fond days of Linn's full blown Aktiv Briks.

Ok, now I understand why you have three (at the moment, passive) NAP250.2s. Still reckon you could use an XPS though. An opinion only, we've all got them. Looking forward to hearing that your Snaic 5 is repaired or you have a new one, and harmony is restored in your NaimWorld.

C.

Thanks Chris!

Allante93!

Haven't got around to getting my Snaic repaired, skipping isn't occurring as often, since I took Richard's Advice.

However, I was considering replacing it with an brand new Chord Chorus Reference Snaic.

Not to killing expensive, brand New, but not in original packaging. ( EBay UK )

Are these legit?

Built quality looks good, and of course, suppose to be a substantial improvement over standard Naim Snaic.

Searching the Forum, I've come across some conflicting information.

5 pin Din Lavender 180 degree signal only

5 pin Din Snaic 270 degree sig. & power

 Question:

Is the latter a 270 or 240 degree configuration?

Thanks in advance!

Allante93!

Allante,

I'm pleased you seem to have nailed down the source of the squeaking - when it comes through the speakers, a poor connection or damaged SNAIC is usually the cause.

Stick with the legitimate Naim SNAIC please. Discussion of any 3rd party "SNAICs" is outside of forum AUP and hence not allowed.

Richard Dane posted:

Allante,

I'm pleased you seem to have nailed down the source of the squeaking - when it comes through the speakers, a poor connection or damaged SNAIC is usually the cause.

Stick with the legitimate Naim SNAIC please. Discussion of any 3rd party "SNAICs" is outside of forum AUP and hence not allowed.

My Bad!

I thought Chord was ok!

 Chord Music

Chord Sarum SA

Chord Signature

Chord Chorus Reference

 Sorry! 

Got it Third-party "Snaics!"

Just considering, as Members has pointed out, best option is to get Snaic repaired.

However, is the 5 pin Naim Snaic a 270 or 240 configuration?

Once Again Thanks Richard!

Richard Dane posted:

Allante,

I'm pleased you seem to have nailed down the source of the squeaking - when it comes through the speakers, a poor connection or damaged SNAIC is usually the cause.

Stick with the legitimate Naim SNAIC please. Discussion of any 3rd party "SNAICs" is outside of forum AUP and hence not allowed.

@ Richard:

Is it ok to customize the length of Lavender and Snaics?

In the process of having the 5 pin din 240 degree Snaic repaired, thinking of having the length shortened.

To an nice Arch, not touching any other wires.

Thanks in Advance!

Allante93!

It's modifying a Naim product so breaking forum rules and Richard may not want to comment or may even delete this bit of the thread, but yes it's fine (speaking as a chartered electronics engineer, as long as HH isn't listening).

best

David

Electrically it would be fine if it was one inch long. But it's more an issue of what it does to the sound. And I can say that with my PhD in zoology. 

You weren't supposed to be listening HH!  But hopefully that means that your recovery is ongoing, sonically speaking?

best

David

Thanks gentleman, just wanted to give last minute instructions to repair facility.

I will make a judgement call.

I did take the advice of Richard and Forum members, to stick with standard Naim Snaic, as opposed to third party Sniacs.

Thanks!

Allante93!

Allante, there's no advantage to shortening a SNAIC, unless you want poorer performance and a lead that has suddenly lost 90% of its resale value for the future.  Leave it be.  If the SNAIC cannot be properly repaired then time to buy a new one.