Melco on Fraim
Posted by: Pawson6844 on 23 February 2017
Hi
We have just purchased a Urika for our lp12. This has left us with a free shelf where the phono stage was. I was going to put the melco into the Fraim however the chord Ethernet cables won't fit because of the rear leg of Fraim.
The option I have is to change around the stacking order and locate the melco on a top shelf. I currently have the 282 on a top shelf however this will have to move down a shelf because the Lp12 takes the other top shelf.
Suggested stacking would be
lp12 Melco
282 Hi cap dr
ndx Xps dr
radikal 250dr
Does this look sensible and will there be much difference in moving the 282 down a shelf. It has sat on the top since we got it.
Any other options I've missed?
Thanks
Not much help with the stacking order, but with a bit of careful measurement you can replace the troublesome wide rear Fraim leg with a suitable bolt. I've done this to accommodate my Melco.
tonym posted:Not much help with the stacking order, but with a bit of careful measurement you can replace the troublesome wide rear Fraim leg with a suitable bolt. I've done this to accommodate my Melco.
Clever Tony. Would never have thought of that. I think too coventionally. Do you ever miss a trick?
I rotated my Fraim support to accommodate a CDS2 connection. Just loosen the bolt and rotate it a bit. Tighen back. Worth a try.
Nice tip Skip...
I don't think there's a problem with your proposed setup unless you're using a Hiline and if the xps-ndx burndy clears the floor. The 282 isn't that demanding of the top shelf, in fact where I've tried it above a CDX2 or vice versa the the CDX on top sounded more engaging, it was completely the opposite result when a 552's replaced it.
Is a wall shelf out of the question for the LP12?
I have the Melco on top of the intelligent stack. It's most probably not 100 percent ideal, but I found it the most practical......
tonym posted:Not much help with the stacking order, but with a bit of careful measurement you can replace the troublesome wide rear Fraim leg with a suitable bolt. I've done this to accommodate my Melco.
This is a good idea I'll look into this
yeti42 posted:I don't think there's a problem with your proposed setup unless you're using a Hiline and if the xps-ndx burndy clears the floor. The 282 isn't that demanding of the top shelf, in fact where I've tried it above a CDX2 or vice versa the the CDX on top sounded more engaging, it was completely the opposite result when a 552's replaced it.
Is a wall shelf out of the question for the LP12?
Yes the lp12 will stay on the Fraim. The Burndy and snaic from 282 to hi cap both clear the floor.
I have a hi line between the Ndx and 282. This now rests on the floor. I've got it off the floor on a piece of pipe foam insulation but it's not ideal, I don't see what else I can do apart from try the bar idea above.
Pawson6844 posted:tonym posted:Not much help with the stacking order, but with a bit of careful measurement you can replace the troublesome wide rear Fraim leg with a suitable bolt. I've done this to accommodate my Melco.
This is a good idea I'll look into this
Here's a photo of the adaptation. I did this originally to allow for the cabling on the back of my SNAXO, but as you can see it gives plenty of room for the Melco's connections (that dust is deliberate, it improves the sound, or so I'm assured) -

we need a duster in the jungle !
Emre posted:we need a duster in the jungle !
I just can't get the staff!
For now, I have just moved my Melco box about 2" to the left so the cat 5 would clear the rear Fraim standard. I just purchased a cat 6 cable on Amazon with a 90 degree turn on the connector. I'll see how that works. That looks like it needs about 1-1/4" of rear clearance, which will push the Melco unit beyond the front of the Fraim by about 1/4". That means it can work, I just need to find one with a lower profile. I know they have the same thing for USB connectors too.
I can see how TonyM's solution works. It also allows for the use of higher end cables too. I'm just not ready to go that way yet.
Arthur
Arthur Bye posted:For now, I have just moved my Melco box about 2" to the left so the cat 5 would clear the rear Fraim standard. I just purchased a cat 6 cable on Amazon with a 90 degree turn on the connector. I'll see how that works. That looks like it needs about 1-1/4" of rear clearance, which will push the Melco unit beyond the front of the Fraim by about 1/4". That means it can work, I just need to find one with a lower profile. I know they have the same thing for USB connectors too.
I can see how TonyM's solution works. It also allows for the use of higher end cables too. I'm just not ready to go that way yet.
Arthur
The 90 degree connectors are a good idea however the chord cables are really stiff. I've just had the indigo and Sarum on home demo. They need at least 3 inches from the rear of the melco before you can start to bend the cable. Any closer and it will just strain the ports. Looks like two options, go for the bar like Tony or use a top shelf.
tonym posted:Pawson6844 posted:tonym posted:Not much help with the stacking order, but with a bit of careful measurement you can replace the troublesome wide rear Fraim leg with a suitable bolt. I've done this to accommodate my Melco.
This is a good idea I'll look into this
Here's a photo of the adaptation. I did this originally to allow for the cabling on the back of my SNAXO, but as you can see it gives plenty of room for the Melco's connections (that dust is deliberate, it improves the sound, or so I'm assured) -
I see what you have done, and I guess it's affective. But I hesitate as I see a reduction in the astetics and not sure how much the change would do for me from a sund perspective...
As an experiment you could swap the hicap and ndx. Not say it will be better but it might. How clean is a Radikal anyway?
I was also thinking about purchasing a hollow Aluminium tube, of similar composition to the Fraim uprights, and cut it to length to replace the rear upright. I'd need the right diameter and then cut it to length. But then I could use the original hardware, like TonyM has, but with a better aesthetic. Any ideas on what I could use? That should also reduce the chance of it affecting the sound.
On the aesthetic front, in my situation the bolt is entirely invisible (there's a CD storage unit to the side that I moved out of the way to get the photo), but if it was apparent I'd be covering it with a matt black tube. Oh, and there's no sound difference with this arrangement Bert.
Tonym, I'm glad to hear the sound is not affected by your modification. That makes a cosmetic cover up much easier. I see that you have some kind of knurled knob at the top of your riser. Is that just serving as a spacer? I could just have a washer there instead, correct?
Hi Arthur, yes, it's just a spacer. It's a few years since I did this adaptation & I'm afraid I can't remember the exact details.