Naim Snaxo 2-4 Conversion

Posted by: Ebeneezer01 on 29 May 2017

Hi, does anybody know if it's possible to convert a Snaxo 2-4 to a 242,and would it worth doing?

 Cheers.

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by Richard Dane

No, the casework, wiring and PCB is completely different.  You would need to trade one against the other.

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by jfritzen

But isn't it possible to convert a 2-4 to a 242 output socket layout, i.e. both treble channels on one amp, both mid/bass channels on the other? Perhaps that is what the OP intended with the question?

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by hungryhalibut

I'm sure I've heard of that being done, and it's presumably just a matter of re-routing the wires from the boards onto different din sockets. 

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by Richard Dane

You could change the socket wiring to enable horizontal amp orientation (I don't know how official this is, but I seem to recall it being done at the factory on request) - i.e. one amp per L+R driver, but this does not make a SNAXO 242 as there were a number of improvements made to the circuit and layout which improved performance.

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by Ebeneezer01

But isn't it possible to convert a 2-4 to a 242 output socket layout, i.e. both treble channels on one amp, both mid/bass channels on the other? Perhaps that is what the OP intended with the question?

That essentially is what I'm wondering, and would it worth the hassle?

cheers Mike.

 

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by Richard Dane

The main advantage is that it means you don't need to have the amps exactly matched.

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by Willy

Had looked into this recently and the view from the factory is that it has an adverse effect on performance. Something to do with the earthing I believe.

Willy. 

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by Allante93
Richard Dane posted:

The main advantage is that it means you don't need to have the amps exactly matched.

How about the adjustment of the PODS, any advantages there?

Asking because that is my next purchase.

Perhaps a 3-6 vs 362.

Cdx2>282>HCDR>3 x 250.2>Briks

Might be able to save some cash, without compromising performance!

Allante93!

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by Richard Dane

PODS?

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by james n

Pots ?

Posted on: 29 May 2017 by Allante93
james n posted:

Pots ?

"Hi,I have a Snaxo 3,6 and a 362, both for Naim DBL.I am using them on Linn Isobarik,the 3.6 have lower bass and also have much more weight and punch.For those who have upgraded from 3.6 to 362,can you please advise as to whether this is a characteristic of the 362 and also how i can get similar bass out of the 362.Both have factory settings,untouched.Also can I achieve this by turning the bass [POTS] up or is it more than this."

Thanks james, you picked it up instantly!

How about the adjustment of the POTS, any advantages there?

Anyone?

2-4 vs 242

Allante93!

 

 

 

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by hungryhalibut
Ebeneezer01 posted:

But isn't it possible to convert a 2-4 to a 242 output socket layout, i.e. both treble channels on one amp, both mid/bass channels on the other? Perhaps that is what the OP intended with the question?

That essentially is what I'm wondering, and would it worth the hassle?

cheers Mike.

 

Aren't you the OP? Do you not know what you intended by the question? 

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Richard Dane

Allante, the pots are there to make small level adjustments.  They function the same way on both the SNAXO 2-4 and the 242.

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Marksnaim
Allante93 posted:
james n posted:

Pots ?

"Hi,I have a Snaxo 3,6 and a 362, both for Naim DBL.I am using them on Linn Isobarik,the 3.6 have lower bass and also have much more weight and punch.For those who have upgraded from 3.6 to 362,can you please advise as to whether this is a characteristic of the 362 and also how i can get similar bass out of the 362.Both have factory settings,untouched.Also can I achieve this by turning the bass [POTS] up or is it more than this."

Thanks james, you picked it up instantly!

How about the adjustment of the POTS, any advantages there?

Anyone?

2-4 vs 242

Allante93!

 

 

 

Interesting. The POTS act as volume controls for the different bands, mid& bass and treble on the 2-4 or 242. So changing either up or down will increase/decrease the volume of the band being changed. So bringing that adjusted band forward or backward in the mix. But does that constitute deeper bass if you increase the volume of the bass band? The POTS are not tone controls so that would seem to suggest not although increasing the volume of the bass in contrast to the mid/treble might be perceived as deepening the bass if it becomes more prominent.

I've not yet had the time or compunction to try adjusting the POTS on my 362 (also DBL for Isobariks as recommended by Naim) but when I move my equipment into the new back lounge and it becomes better sited I will give it a go. I suspect the new room will have a brighter character due to large bifold doors so maybe the treble will need dialling back a fraction. Time will tell.

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by james n
Marksnaim posted:
Allante93 posted:
james n posted:

Pots ?

"Hi,I have a Snaxo 3,6 and a 362, both for Naim DBL.I am using them on Linn Isobarik,the 3.6 have lower bass and also have much more weight and punch.For those who have upgraded from 3.6 to 362,can you please advise as to whether this is a characteristic of the 362 and also how i can get similar bass out of the 362.Both have factory settings,untouched.Also can I achieve this by turning the bass [POTS] up or is it more than this."

Thanks james, you picked it up instantly!

How about the adjustment of the POTS, any advantages there?

Anyone?

2-4 vs 242

Allante93!

 

 

 

Interesting. The POTS act as volume controls for the different bands, mid& bass and treble on the 2-4 or 242. So changing either up or down will increase/decrease the volume of the band being changed. So bringing that adjusted band forward or backward in the mix. But does that constitute deeper bass if you increase the volume of the bass band?

Yes - effectively volume controls for the Bass / Treble. Factory settings should be fine but you could do small adjustments in situ to account for different room characteristics, listening preferences. In your example, the bass won't be deeper just louder. 

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Richard Dane

Any adjustments from the factory settings (usually indicated by a black or white dot) should be relatively small, and in most cases not needed.  They aren't tone controls and should not be used as such.  You should optimise as far as possible without touching the pots, and only adjust them as a final touch.

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Allante93
Richard Dane posted:

You could change the socket wiring to enable horizontal amp orientation

(I don't know how official this is, but I seem to recall it being done at the factory on request)

- i.e. one amp per L+R driver,

{{but this does not make a SNAXO 242 as there were a number of improvements made to the circuit and layout which improved performance.}}

Thanks Gentleman!

Some times a Question is put forth, before thoroughly reading an answer.

MY MISTAKE!

Can an 2-4 be converted

to an 242?    (Yes and No.)

So if I run across an 3-6 at a Steal, perhaps it MAY be worthwhile.

The Major advantage, the 242/362 allows for different amps to be used. (Wonky)

However, there were a NUMBER of improvements  made to the circuits and layout, which improved the performance of the UPDATED version.

Thanks to all:

James, Fritzen, and Mark!

I Remember when I first joined the Forum, DB shared pictures of his 500 Active Briks.

He thoroughly explained the adjustments of the (PODS)! LOL.......pots

Thanks!

Allante93

PS. Perhaps I will hold out for the 362, they just don't show up on the 2nd hand Market!

 

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Marksnaim

Hi Allante,

worth saving for a new 362 I think. It's actually one of the cheaper black boxes fortunately. Well, compared to Supercap etc. 

Rgds

Mark

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Darke Bear

In the case of Active Briks I can say that as supplied by Naim the 3-way Active crossover which was meant to be specially pre-set for Briks was not!

It had to be set via the pots to increase that bass and reduce the treble or it was unlistenable. Trust your hearing and if it sounds way wrong it is. I posted how to do it all a few years ago for those interested.

Having moved-on to Ovator I can say that with the S600 it was nearly perfect but a small tweak improved it, but it was about right - and for the S800 I think it is correct as delivered and I have had no desire to touch it.

But from several other posts concerning Active Briks people were complaining about the pre-set default of the pots being wrong - I remember someone not wanting to touch the pots and instead putting a dinner-plate over the tweeter to reduce the HF - I'd say if you are doing that then please just get it sorted by using the pots.

DB.

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Marksnaim
Naim won't supply a 362 configured for Briks these days. You'll get the DBL version which they say works fine. Seems that way to me at the moment in this room and I'm quite sensitive to excessive treble. It's a small room with plently of soft furnishings so that might be a factor.
Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Allante93
Marksnaim posted:

Hi Allante,

worth saving for a new 362 I think. It's actually one of the cheaper black boxes fortunately. Well, compared to Supercap etc. 

Rgds

Mark

I agree, even though I think Focal/Naim is in Streamline mode, I don't see them killing off the Snaxo!

May of 2017: Forum

"Here's a conclusion from a lengthy post from my visit to the Chester Acoustica Show where they were driven by a SNAXO active system:"

Why go through the hassel of tuning your Active Crossover, if you are going to cease production.

Who knows, maybe an UPDATE, on the horizon!!!!!!!!

I guess their Business partner has no interest in Active Speakers.

They had no problem displaying their $180K Reference Speaker @ the Munich show.

Whilst members on the Forum, reported THE $280K STATEMENT, was collecting dust.

Just saying!

I know, a Business Relationship, which benefits both parties!

Allante93!

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Stephen Tate
Richard Dane posted:

Any adjustments from the factory settings (usually indicated by a black or white dot) should be relatively small, and in most cases not needed.  They aren't tone controls and should not be used as such.  You should optimise as far as possible without touching the pots, and only adjust them as a final touch.

Yup, that's exactly how I understood it too. When I was active with my IXO for over ten years, even with easy and quick access to the pots, once these were set (very slightly if any from the factory mode) to the room or for required taste, there is no need for further adjustment or even the need to ever adjust them again.

I found that one gained far better results by all the usual Hi Fi rules. Cable dressing, connection, mains, room treatment, source first etc...

 

Posted on: 30 May 2017 by Darke Bear

You should never use the Snaxo pots as 'tone controls' as they are definitely not that!

They should be set for the specific speaker crossover point and relative-gain. I only ever did mine for the Briks as they were very wrong as pre-set, being a few dB out and possibly set-up for another speaker - I suspect it was pre-set for the DBL and it was a mistake that I was told it was set for Briks.

My existing S800 Snaxo has not been touched in the years I've had it from new, as it is correct - you can tell as the bass image seamlessly integrates with the upper-frequencies and percussion is tight and powerful - percussion power and image is what goes wrong when the crossover is not set right.

DB.