MK I Kans v Active IBLs

I think Marksnaim might be your man.

Have used Mk1 Kans and Mk2 IBLs (both passive and active) with 250/250s. To my ears the IBLs, even passive, were preferable. Active moves the IBLs up to a whole different league.

My brother currently runs active Mk1 Kans using 180s. Taking into account the different (less capable) front end, the different amplifiers and the different room (Kans benefiting from a smaller room) again my (strong) preference would be for the IBLs.

If two identical systems were set up using active Kans and Active IBLs I suspect that on a short audition it might go in favour of the Kans. On the right sort of music they really reach out and grab you. On a longer audition I have no doubt it would favour the IBLs. Their ability to connect you with the musician is, imho, streets ahead of the Kans.  The articulacy of the active IBL bass is magic!

Willy.

Willy - it's interesting that you have such a clear preference. I have flip-flopped on which I have preferred, often depending on the arm that was being used (or perhaps that became a preconception).

Mark - could you elaborate on what "LP12" means please? If in doubt I suppose that you could always plump for the one you most like the look of 

Thanks for the insight Willy.  

Howdy Chris, I'm not allowed to talk about Tangerine products here, suffice to say they often feature on my player!  Then again I enjoy the LP12 in so many guises and right now am working with the pre Cirkus kind.

Regards,

Mark

I've not heard active Kans but did run passive with 32.5/HC/250 many moons ago. I doubt whether my memory is good enough to draw realistic comparisons but I know I really enjoyed that setup before moving to Briks. I ran IBLs both passive and active. Firstly with a 180 then 2 x 180 then later with 250 passive and then 2 x 250. IBLs active are astonishing. I still have mine, albeit in storage at the moment. I some respects I still prefer them to my Briks. Bottom line, I would say IMO that Active IBLs outperform Passive Kans by quite a margin. I'm basing that on my dim recollections of Passive Kans vs Passive IBLs (different in some ways but both enjoyable musically) vs the big step up in detail, attack and musicality that going active brings to the IBL camp.

I was running briks (32.5/hicap/250 at the time iirc)  when I picked up my IBLs. They were cheap. I was curious. 

Moved the bricks out of the office and the IBLs in to try. (This was in the days when I could still lift and carry a brik).

Activated the IBLs.

Sold the briks.

Bought SL2s and sold the IBLs but there was something about the IBLs I still hankered for. DBLs have scratched that itch, even in their (currently) passive state.

Willy.

Excuse my ignorance, but i've heard this term 'go active' for a while.  How does one 'go active'?  Is it just a case of buying a Snaxo which replaces your crossovers on the speakers?  At home I have 2 x CB 135's and also 2 x 'spare' CB 250's.  What could I do with this lot potentially? 

Lewis,

yes, you remove the passive crossover from the speaker (Naim allow this on most of their speaker models) and replace with an active (powered) crossover like the SNAXO - note you'll also need a power supply such as a Hicap or Supercap to power the SNAXO.  The FAQ explains in more detail:

https://forums.naimaudio.com/to...-is-an-active-system

p.s. with your amps you could actively drive a pair of NBL or DBLs, or perhaps a pair of PMS Isobariks.  Depending on the SNAXO, you may need to have the amps matched at the factory.

Lewis posted:

Excuse my ignorance, but i've heard this term 'go active' for a while.  How does one 'go active'?  Is it just a case of buying a Snaxo which replaces your crossovers on the speakers?  At home I have 2 x CB 135's and also 2 x 'spare' CB 250's.  What could I do with this lot potentially? 

You could activate your SBLs with the two NAP250s, a Snaxo and *cap, and double speaker runs, if you wanted to get a feel for it.

Would love to hear active SBLs myself, find out what it's all about..... 

For active there's 2 (4) options - 2-4 or 3-6.

2-4 (2 way speakers): this will supply either 2 stereo naps (eg nap140), 1 for each sbl, or 4 mono naps (eg nap135), 2 for each sbl.

Stereo nap - 1 channel amplifies the LF & the other channel the HF.

Mono nap - each nap amplifies either LF or HF.

3-6 is similar except for 3 way speakers - LF, MF & HF.

However, slightly different whereby the 3 stereo naps would amplify each frequency range for both L & R speakers.

Mono naps would be the same in the sense that each nap amplifies each frequency range.

I use a naxo2-4 powered by a hicap, 2 nap140s each powering an sbl.

Mono naps would be the same in the sense that each nap (x6) amplifies each frequency range... for each speaker (dbls)

I am in the process of building a set of Kans ..... using original type drivers, have built my own hard wired crossovers with polyprop caps ... the cabinet is 18mm birch ply with allot of bracing walls are damped with 3mm lead and lined with felt. I have tweaked the size a little to ensure the volume is correct  I am about 75% way through ... can wait to finish them ... they weigh about 20kg each!! The cabinet is really inert - the tweater rear is sealed so cabinet pressure does not effect it ......  phew....

Photos!

Tell us more about your pxos

Double click above for pics.... best I can do at the moment. I have always thought that the cabinet construction did no favours for the kan.... so my idea is to make the most soild and inert cabinets possible.... now I might be barking up the wrong tree .... I don't think so I have used these b110s on a number of occasions.. .. and they are really good....it may be rather a while before I complete them. I am also going to bond weights to the 110 frame to break up basket vibrations.... I know the kan purists will not like this.... 

Richard Dane posted:

Lewis,

yes, you remove the passive crossover from the speaker (Naim allow this on most of their speaker models) and replace with an active (powered) crossover like the SNAXO - note you'll also need a power supply such as a Hicap or Supercap to power the SNAXO.  The FAQ explains in more detail:

https://forums.naimaudio.com/to...-is-an-active-system

p.s. with your amps you could actively drive a pair of NBL or DBLs, or perhaps a pair of PMS Isobariks.  Depending on the SNAXO, you may need to have the amps matched at the factory.

Point of information, Richard, please.  Can one go active with the nSats?  That might be a fun project.

(sorry to interrupt)

Skip, no, you can't activate n-Sats - at least not officially, or within the AUP of this forum.

Well I now have a lovely pair of IBLs I got from Loud & Clear, all boxed and pretty mint.

As for the sound; addictive!  I totally get why folk are crazy about them, they are right up my alley!

Regards,

Mark

Gaius: Tangerine posted:

Well I now have a lovely pair of IBLs I got from Loud & Clear, all boxed and pretty mint.

 

As for the sound; addictive!  I totally get why folk are crazy about them, they are right up my alley!

 

Regards,

 

Mark

Active yet?

Willy.