Naim Torque

Posted by: Darke Bear on 01 October 2017

This is something to be aware of with any new Loudspeaker purchase or if you have owned a pair for several years.
Following a visit to a Forum member and a strong suggestion that he wanted his system set-up looked at I ventured forth and had a listen. This was a good spec system:

NDS-2x555DR PS, 552 DR - 500 DR (on two Fraim stacks) - Ovator S600.

It all sounded nice but a bit lack-luster, so we proceeded with some set-up changes.

1. Ensure Brawn and Brain stacks are implemented. This was done ahead of my visit by shifting the NDS onto the 552 - 500 stack and evidently met with the delight of the owner.

But it meant the two Fraim heights were not the same which seemed the reason they where not that way to start with. This is not a problem for me, but does seem to cause domestic distress for many, so I suggested a solution was to add spacers to let the power supplies breath. This works wonders in my system but not many want to try it, the owner did so he obtained a new Medium Level -  which I like sonically.

2. Insert Spacers. The Brawn power supply stack was bottom to top: 500PS, 552PS, 555DR(A). 555DR(D) all on medium levels.
We left the 500PS on the lower shelf, where I find it works well, and created a space above it by having a empty level, then the 552PS, then the Medim level with 555DR(A) and the 555DR(D) above that as before. The 500PS I've found is the main culprit to be kept away from the other equipment and supplies - it generates the largest and noisiest field.

We had a listen and it was immediately obvious the bass was now more powerful, coherent and open than before. Rather than just 'bass' there were instruments - drums and bass guitar and low synth with their own character. So well worthwhile.

Then we were going to look at the Speakers. They had not been torque-checked since purchase and installation and I knew they would probably be out of spec, but not quite how much it may impact the performance. It should be emphasised you don't just go and blindly 'tighten them up', as you can make them sound far worse if too tight and not all done the same. I had seen my Dealer perform this properly twice before and obtained the correct Torque Driver and Naim torque-settings beforehand.

3. Re-torque the Bass Drivers: These were done to the setting Naim specify. We listened and it was all rather a shock - all Artists were now awake and interested in the performance which by comparison was a bit drowsy before. It also sounded much louder at the same volume setting we used before unchanged.

4. Re-torque the BMR front and back housing bolts: Again to the correct setting, less than that of the Bass drivers. The same result now appeared to the upper-frequencies - far more open, detailed and dynamic. It woke the system up.

5. We then re-built the 'Brain' stack: top to bottom - NDS, empty (tall) space, 500 (on std shelf), empty lower shelf.
We retained the configuration we had before, as this is about optimal as the 500 likes being up from the lowest shelf. We re-tightened all the Fraim and I un-tightened and re-tightened some levels that were far too tight. You can have things too tight and it will sound 'shouty' and brittle and lose detail if things are way too tight; if they are too loose it smears and you lose definition. We made sure that base level was actually level with a spirit-level first.

After the Brawn shelf was re-commissioned we listened again and there was a nice warmth and fullness to the sound as all the extra low-level detail was now being retrieved.

6. We then completed the job and re-built the Brawn stack with different but worthwhile results - more tunefulness and the system sounded far more coherent and happy with itself.

...the aftermath is that I also re-checked my S800 speakers which have not been home-torqued for about 5 years last by my Dealer and they really liked being done with results similar to observed with the S600. Some experiment showed mine likes being a tiny bit lower in torque than specified to get the best results.

Again - this is really a job for your Dealer with the right tools. Do not just tighten things blind. Too tight loses detail and sounds bland, too loose and you lose resolution - there is a correct setting.

My reason for posting this is to realise that set-up matters, things can drift off over time and it is worthwhile every few years getting things properly checked to enjoy what you paid for at its best.

DB.

Posted on: 01 October 2017 by Martin.L

Or you can buy a Statement... 

Good job!

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Richard Dane

Nice post DB. Another reminder that I must strip down the Fraim, rebuild, and also get out the torque driver on the SL2s.

But first priority is to finish filling the barn with wood for the winter. So chainsaw strip down comes first... 

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by rsch

Great job DB !

If you 'd ever want to pay me a visit, you'd be granted with a top level If accomodation on lake Como 

More seriously, do you know the torque settings for S600 ? when our local Naim service manager, came at home early this year, to replace  a faulty BMR unit , he did not pay particular attention to Ovator's torque settings ( i had a torque wrench at disposal btw)

Also, have a rough guide for Fraim tightening force ?  My brawn stack is like the one at point 2 bar i have no space between 500 ps and 552 ps

Regards

Roberto

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Morton

Would it be ok to use some low strength threadlocker such as loctite 222 to prevent the bolts coming loose again, or is the problem that the material being held compresses over time which loosens the bolts?

 

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by james n
Morton posted:

Would it be ok to use some low strength threadlocker such as loctite 222 to prevent the bolts coming loose again, or is the problem that the material being held compresses over time which loosens the bolts?

 

Best not use the threadlock. Just get yourself a small adjustable torque driver (RS do decent ones at good prices) to check and reset fixings torque. 

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Darke Bear
rsch posted:
More seriously, do you know the torque settings for S600 ?

The Bass drivers are 3nm and the BMR housing (6 bolts front and back) are 2nm.

There are then many under the speaker that I'd need the spec-sheet for - I want to remain within forum rules so don't want to state anything incorrect.

DB.

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Morton
james n posted:
Morton posted:

Would it be ok to use some low strength threadlocker such as loctite 222 to prevent the bolts coming loose again, or is the problem that the material being held compresses over time which loosens the bolts?

 

Best not use the threadlock. Just get yourself a small adjustable torque driver (RS do decent ones at good prices) to check and reset fixings torque. 

I was offering this as a possible solution for others, it does not apply to my speakers which, apart from a little light dusting, (which can of course be delegated) are maintenance free.
I’m unclear why you would think loctite 222 would not be appropriate.
It also begs the question of how many very expensive speakers are now being used but giving a less than ideal performance due to incorrectly torqued bolts.

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by james n

If the manufacturer had thought it appropriate then they would have used threadlock at initial manufacture - a lot depends on the materials used as to whether this is appropriate. It's not a big problem just to check the fixings (or get someone else to do it). I've always done it with my own speakers. 

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Darke Bear

The cabinet housing thickness shrinks a little with time - just material physics, so the torque will change for a tiny bit of shrinkage and you need to re-torque over time. Fixing the nuts will not stop that.

This is also the case with Fraim - it needs a re-tighten after the first year then it stays tight for years.

DB.

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by fatcat

The torque is not really the important factor, the important factor is the thrust or clamping load provided by the thread.

The thrust is dependant on the torque, the helix angle of the thread and coefficient of friction between the male and female thread.

Threadlock would initially reduce friction, which would increase thrust for a given torque. Once set it would probably increase friction, reducing thrust for a given torque.

It might me interesting to calculate the compressive stress (lbs/in2) exerted on the gasket material. What type/size/qty of threads used and what’s the surface area of the gaskets.

 

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by The Strat (Fender)

I also think that a strip down and re-build allows opportunity to hoover behind the racks.  Good stuff DB.

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Clive B

Can anyone advise how to access the bolts securing the bass drivers on the NBL?

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by ken c
Richard Dane posted:

Nice post DB. Another reminder that I must strip down the Fraim, rebuild, and also get out the torque driver on the SL2s.

But first priority is to finish filling the barn with wood for the winter. So chainsaw strip down comes first... 

i was shocked how 'loose' my Fraim stacks were when Andy@Signals re-built them. They are all nice and tight now. But i disturbed my SL2s a bit when i installed new tweeters etc., so need to fine tune at least one of them -- then tweeter is slightly off-centre in its hole in the top box -- if that makes any sense. but to be honest, i haven't noticed any severe impact on SQ -- but its good practice to do this anyhow, wont do any harm -- and might actually result in improved performance.

enjoy

ken

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by rsch
Darke Bear posted:
rsch posted:
More seriously, do you know the torque settings for S600 ?

The Bass drivers are 3nm and the BMR housing (6 bolts front and back) are 2nm.

There are then many under the speaker that I'd need the spec-sheet for - I want to remain within forum rules so don't want to state anything incorrect.

DB.

Thank you !

R.

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by yeti42

It says in the NBL manual not to touch the bass drivers, they have to go back to base for any work, whether base is still interested I don't know. The mid range driver has a torque setting of 3.6Nm and the tweeter mount value is so small it's better to look at the O rings and how much they're compressed, not too much but enough to hold them seems to be the advice there.

Norbar are using an example of an NBL mid range driver in one of their examples, I hope Richard will allow this as it's Naim related but you'll have to copy it into your browser without the quotes to follow it, you can see the tweeter plate O rings in the picture.

"norbar.com/en-gb/News-Events/Blog/entryid/438/Default"

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by J.N.

Great job and report Gary. The happy recipient of your services has been trying to make phone contact with me over the weekend.

John.

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Geko

DB, your comments on the Fraim tightness are interesting. I was to old by my dealer to tighten  a Fraimto within an inch of its life, and then add the other inch. Any tips on how you gauge the correct tightness?

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Richard Dane

It's all in the FAQ:

How to Build Naim Fraim

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Darke Bear
Geko posted:

DB, your comments on the Fraim tightness are interesting. I was to old by my dealer to tighten  a Fraim to within an inch of its life, and then add the other inch. Any tips on how you gauge the correct tightness?

The Dealer probably does not want to visit to tighten it again from what you say - I think that was his criteria !

You only have to listen to know you can have it too tight. I found out the hard way by over-tightening and finding it sounded worse - you lose tone-colour or low-level detail. I think this is because the resonance goes up as you increase the torsion on the uprights and they are no longer properly damped by the wood of the shelf. 

Any physical vibration system interacts with damping to be either under-damped, critically-damped or over-damped - you can look-up the time response to each to know you want it being close to critical-damped for best results. Over-damped is when it is too loose an you get smear and under-damped you get HF ringing and obscuring fine detail.

I do what the Naim instructions say - tighten to just not movable by gently trying to turn, then about just a bit more. If you are bending the locking bar, you are too tight!

I purchased once a second-hand fraim level and it was already assembled and seemed tight so just inserted it and it sounded awful - bland and 'shouty' presentation. Took it out and with great effort managed to loosen it and re-tighten and it was working as it should with natural rendition of tone-colours / proper low-level harmonics.

When over-tight it picks-out the loudest notes and that is all you hear - it is a bland and bombastic presentation I'm not too fond of.

Tighten them all just tight then apply a good single twist by hand and you will have it about right. I tend to tighten the large back uprights a little more than the front ones for some reason too.

DB.

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Massimo Bertola
Richard Dane posted:

But first priority is to finish filling the barn with wood for the winter. So chainsaw strip down comes first... 

It's always nice to take the old chainsaw out and dust it for the winter. Some small car with four teenagers could take the wrong turn any moment and you'll have some occupation for the long winter days.

 

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Massimo Bertola
Darke Bear posted:

 This was a good spec system:

NDS-2x555DR PS, 552 DR - 500 DR (on two Fraim stacks) - Ovator S600.


Agreed. I've heard black things with a handle taken off the shelf in department stores sound worse. Too bad we can't easily deal with great spec systems...

 

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Gianluigi Mazzorana
Richard Dane posted:

 So chainsaw strip down comes first... 

Please don't mention it.......

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Dustysox

Confessions of Dusty...it was me...i confess all!!

DB was kind enough to pay me a visit. A visit that turned out to be a revelation. Boy does that Bear know his stuff!

I had got home from a great summer holiday and on my return was itching to power the system up knowing that it would take a couple of days to come on song..it didn't. In desperation i looked in the yellow pages for a bear who was an expert on Naim systems. Imagine my surprise to find someone matching these credentials....i kid you not 

DB had advised me to move things around on the Fraim, and as per his post we moved the NDS and a  Fraim shelf over to the "Brawn" rack. This brought an improvement that took me by surprise. He then suggested that i put the 500 PS on the bottom brawn shelf with a space above it. Well, this was the greatest surprise of all. What an incredible improvement. more of everything One of the things that has always impressed me about DB is his ability to convey into words exactly what he is hearing. Well DB, heres my effort...drum roll........it sounded brilliant!!!!!!! Fantastic free upgrade. The point is to give as much space to the power supplies getting them away from sensitive equipment on the brawn rack. Try it if you can, it really works.

Then as DB reports he continued to make small changes and we sat and listened to every "tweak" to reflect on the performance improvement. I took the day off work to ensure maximum enjoyment of meeting the great man eh...Bear in person. One thing that has always impressed me about this forum is there are some wonderful people residing here, willing to help and advise/teach mer mortals like me. It really does restore ones faith in humanity in this crazy world in which we live.

DB arrived all set for the day even bringing a torque set with him for speaker adjustment. DB has pointed out pretty much everything Suffice to say my musical habits have now changed. I now listen  to a complete album. Where as before with the NDS i would select certain tracks from albums. A great feature of the NDS, however with my music enjoyment firmly back in place i want to savour every note, every word of the song. What DB and myself have discussed is that the music seems to of slowed down. Now i'm not suggesting that the tracks have changed in time length , just that the timing is so much improved that you soak up the complete song and just immerse yourself in it, that gives the effect of it seeming to slow down....yup i'm a grown man who happens to be called Dustysox on the forum...so yes i might be slightly mad!!!!!

Sat here right now typing this has taken me an age as i am listening to music and i keep stopping as the music is really distracting me from writing which bizarrely would normally take second place to reading/writing on the forum.

As we know Naim systems are really sensitive to set up. Get it right and it will sing like you have never heard before. Get it wrong and there is no connection with the music. Please try all the points this thread suggests and you will not be disappointed.

Also, a big mention and thank you to J.N for all your help. You are indeed a wonderful person John.

I am lucky enough to have a "Bear friend" now!! One question i did throw into the day was what would have more impact on my system? To replace the 552 with an S1, or go active....well...stay tuned for the answer...i hope the wife is not reading this 

 

 

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Chunky

Dustysox, I note that both you and DB thought the music had slowed down. Funnily enough, I have recently experienced the same thing after I had my 82/250/Hi-cap serviced by Class A.  I said to my wife that the music seemed to have slowed down (obviously it hadn't).  I am hearing so much more of the music, but it does give the strange impression that the music has slowed down!

Posted on: 02 October 2017 by Geko

Thanks DB,

looks like a strip-down is in order because I think my Fraim is far too tight. I've always had a bit of a love/hate relationship with my Fraim after using a Quadraspire. I've always thought it was a little shouty and lacked some of the subtlety the Quadraspire had. Looks like I now understand why. Thanks.