Speaker Cable Question

I would expect the additional connection to be detrimental, although that may or may not make an actual, audible difference. I would want to know what these wall plates your electrician is suggesting are like. Can the buried cables be properly soldered into them, and are they 4mm bananas? Aesthetically, if it's a white plastic wall plate, that would't work for me unless it was completely hidden behind the speakers.

I've just moved my system into a room with a similar issue, where running the cables on the floor was not a possibility. I had to lift quite a few floorboards when I refurbished the room, so I buried the speaker cables while they were lifted, and cut small holes in the boards behind each speaker. Obviously, it's vital to decide on the exact position for the speakers first, as I now have no scope for changing this without further disruption.

Mattnbarns posted:

 Our current plan is to have a conduit installed under the floor so I can run existing cables (TQB) under the floor across the opening.

Best approach. Unless you are making up the wall plates yourself using decent connectors then i'd avoid this route. Also TQ doesn't recommend self terminating the cables. 

If run through inaccessible conduit it would be beneficial for it to be done in such a way as to be loose/free enough to pull through in order to cover any future unforeseen eventuality. The more expensive the cable and less accessible the routing the greater the wisdom of this.

I agree with James.  The wall plates are a neat solution, but if ultimate performance is required then I would avoid any extra connections.  If you do decide to go the wall plate route then use the best connectors you can (matched) and ensure you solder very well.  

I’d go with the conduit. Make sure it doesn’t have bends that are too tight for you to get new leads through, should you choose to change them going forward. 

Thanks for the reply.

I assume that if I go the wall plate route I will choose decent terminals and ensure everything is properly soldered. Yes they will be standard 4mm banana plugs.

The floor is 'solid' and will have underfloor heating (wet) so what ever I decide will be kind of permanent,  The extension is going to be so different from the rest of the house (house grade2 listed timber frame, low ceilings, extension - steel framed, vaulted roof with fold away glass walls) there will be no way to work out the best position for the speakers before I have to decide where the cable runs are going to be.  I don't mind the cables running across the floor a bit but across the opening is a no no.

Mattnbarns posted:

Thanks for the reply.

I assume that if I go the wall plate route I will choose decent terminals and ensure everything is properly soldered. Yes they will be standard 4mm banana plugs.

See my comment about self terminating the TQ cables. I'd speak to them first if you really want to go this route. 

Go for blank plates, then you can choose your own connectors. For banana plugs I'm quite a fan of Deltrons - excellent 4mm sockets and plugs and not expensive either.  I tend to try to avoid anything too chunky or gold plated...

Terminating of TQ cables is a specialist job so I wouldn’t mess with them at all!

As many have said, I’d go the conduit route. Remember to make sure it’s big enough to get TQ Ultra black through it...just in case. 

If, as others here have mentioned, the cables need special terminations then maybe best just avoid the wall plates.  It will also mean it will be easier should you wish to change your cables at some point.

Richard Dane posted:

 I tend to try to avoid anything ...... gold plated...

Such as TQ Black!

Plastic drainpipe as used for sink waste lends itself to burying in concrete, better than some types of electrical conduit. Prerefably the solvent weld type, and as HH suggests elbows are available with a more gentlr radius.

Finkfan posted:

Terminating of TQ cables is a specialist job so I wouldn’t mess with them at all!

As many have said, I’d go the conduit route. Remember to make sure it’s big enough to get TQ Ultra black through it...just in case. 

The one advantage of TQ Black is that the plugs have no bulky covers on them, so the cables could probably be pulled through relatively small conduit without having to remove them. Ultra Black, on the other hand.......

Its looks like a generous open ended conduit with benign changes of angle is the recommended route. 

Many thanks to all for the comments, suggestions and advice. Exactly what I needed.

Cheers,

Innocent Bystander posted:

Plastic drainpipe as used for sink waste lends itself to burying in concrete, better than some types of electrical conduit. Prerefably the solvent weld type, and as HH suggests elbows are available with a more gentlr radius.

I put a total of 10metre x 40mm push fit waste pipes with 135° swept bends to accommodate my runs of Chord Epic Reference. The pipe work is fixed by clips to bottom of floor joists, and terminates through holes in floor just behind speaker plinths. Works really well. When initially installed I used T&E as a pull through, next time (should there be one) it will be the speaker wires themselves.

A suggestion that's a little difficult to describe but here goes, I hope you'll be able to visualise it...

A conduit bridging underneath the opening.  The two ends of the conduit are set into the wall just above floor level at a minimum of 200mm either side from the aperture in the wall.  From this point the conduit has two bends of 45° angle with 250mm bend radius.  The bends are set to go down into the floor at at a 45° angle to the vertical, being deflected toward the inside of the aperture.  If 25mm∅ conduit is used the top of the conduit will be at least 50mm (theoretically 56mm) below the surface of the floor and projecting 88mm inside the opening.

The advantage of this layout are three fold:
Firstly, it doesn't interfere with the heat-exchange pipework for the floor.
Secondly, there will be less tendency for debris to accumulate in the conduit as the entrance is vertical not horizontal (and a protective 'lip' can also be installed if felt necessary).
Thirdly, if at any time it's necessary to remove the system cosmetically, only the skirting boards either side of the opening need be replaced.