Audiophile solder

Before ROHS regulations came into force Naim used to use Multicore Crystal 505, and still use it on any pre-ROHS kit during a service.  It's also pretty much ideal for soldering NACA5 and I know that a number of well respected Naim staff and dealers use it for making up speaker cable assemblies. 

I use two solder types & the reels I have at the moment are both made by Multicore - their claim to fame & the brand name is that they have flux incorporated in the solder wire. 

As mentioned by Richard - Multicore Crystal 505   60/40 Tin/Lead 188'c melting point.  

Multicore Crystal 400     0.7% Copper, 95.5% Tin, 3.5% Silver & 217'c melting point.

Crystal 505 is the old school classic solder & it is very easy to use,  but I'm more than happy using a lead free solder & I will not be replacing the leaded solder if I ever run out of it.   The secret to lead free tin/silver/copper alloy solders is cleanliness & most important with any solder type is the right temperature soldering iron

Multicore 505, that's the stuff I use too. Real easy to work with and ideal for soldering NACA5 to Naim speaker plugs for a perfectly neat & shiny joint. Sounds good too!

You could always sell your 3.5 metre lengths and buy a run of the length required. Never fancied soldering lengths together somehow. I’ve terminated with Naim plugs before with my trusty 100 watt iron but that’s about it.

Thanks for the advice all, got good guidance again. I hear your point Ravenswood10, but firstly know 2x 3.5m isn’t that appealing of NACA5 (after now having 2x 6m NACA5 for my stereo system) for an audiophile (the only group paying large sums for cables). It also gives me a fun geeky project now I’m over the moon with my system and listening room!

In the context of your system, selling the short lengths and buying what you need seems to me like the best option, but as you have an itch that seems to need scratching!! ......... I've had good results with WBT 0825 solder, which is a lead based solder with 4% Silver - still legal outside the EU!? If you can find the stuff Richard recommends, though, I would bow to his greater experience of these matters and get the stuff that Naim use.

Consciousmess,

Soldering is not the only coupling option and the solder itself introduces another variable to the SQ equation. Have you not considered basic mechanical connections? Twisting the cable together at the very least? See how that works and go from there? The simplest solution may prove satisfactory. If not, explore the alternatives.

Just solder it, soldering's the most reliable way and, compared to an unadulterated length of NACA5, there's no sonic penalty. If you just twist the wires together they'll oxidise. Use Crystal 505 - easy to use, works a treat.

Cut back the 'web' between the conductors for a distance about 1.5x the distance you're going to strip on one side of the connection.  Strip the wires from each length of wire (remember to get the orientation and direction right!), place a piece of heat-shrink over the insulation on the piece with the reduced 'web'.  Lay the stripped ends parallel, then twist them together.  Solder heating until the solder has flowed freely over the whole joint (make sure it flows to the underside as well).  Slide the heat-shrink over the exposed solder joint and heat to shrink it.

The type of solder matters very little, the quality of the joint matters greatly.

If you don't insulate the joint properly and something conductive touches both solder joints, or they twist and touch...

Bye bye amplifier!

You have been warned.

joerand posted:

Consciousmess,

Soldering is not the only coupling option and the solder itself introduces another variable to the SQ equation. Have you not considered basic mechanical connections? Twisting the cable together at the very least? See how that works and go from there? The simplest solution may prove satisfactory. If not, explore the alternatives.

I think it's important here to iterate that the basic point of good soldering is to help ensure the best mechanical joint.