Active Ovator 600s

I used to run S600 Active before my present S800 Active.

With Active systems I went from 250 to 300 to 500 to 500DR over time and always used three sets of Amps because I started with Active Briks which needed three amps and later went to the Active S600 and it did not make sense to sell an amp I already had if I may want it later.

If I were in your position with two 500DR I'd probably keep it two Amps, as the 500DR is excellent - so what do you miss not having three? Essentially more clean power output at higher volumes, as essentially you are increasing the clean-power envelope of the Speakers as the bass units get individually powered with a dedicated 500DR amp - it will sound cleaner and more precise in the Bass IMO, but my disclaimer is that I have not tried exactly with the 500DR, but based on previous experience.

So if you play things medium to loud levels you will prefer another 500DR, but at lower replay levels it will probably be wasted.
In your position I'd first consider the rest of the replay chain components and cables and only when all these are at a good level go for another 500DR, which at that point may work rather well.

DB.

Rest of the system ?

Regards

Roberto

LP12/Radikal/Keel/Khan/Aro/Koetsu Urushi Gold/Superline/Supercap

Klimax DS with Katalyst

NAC 552/SNAXO 362 BMR/Supercap

2 NAP 500DR

A mixture of SuperLumina and Chord Sarum Super Array cables

Peter

Tried the Tranquility yet? Fabulous.

PeterE posted:

LP12/Radikal/Keel/Khan/Aro/Koetsu Urushi Gold/Superline/Supercap

Klimax DS with Katalyst

NAC 552/SNAXO 362 BMR/Supercap

2 NAP 500DR

A mixture of SuperLumina and Chord Sarum Super Array cables

Peter

Thank you. 

Sometimes i wonder, which Ovators' s substitute one day ?

Regards

Roberto

rsch posted:

PeterE posted:

LP12/Radikal/Keel/Khan/Aro/Koetsu Urushi Gold/Superline/Supercap

Klimax DS with Katalyst

NAC 552/SNAXO 362 BMR/Supercap

2 NAP 500DR

A mixture of SuperLumina and Chord Sarum Super Array cables

Peter

Thank you. 

Sometimes i wonder, which Ovators' s substitute one day ?

Regards

Roberto

What do you mean, Roberto? No replacement you can imagine?

Blessed the person who has found the right loudspeakers.

I mean if one day i 'll have to change, for whatever reason my 600s or 400s, which louspeaker i'll choose Focal or Kudos

perhaps ?

Regards

Roberto

One thing to do with the Ovators is to get them re-torqued with a proper torque screwdriver. If they have not ever been touched since purchase and especially not been done in place at home, then do that first, as it is the least expensive 'upgrade'.

It is a revelation - the performance really picks-up and it is like you have new speakers. Get your Dealer to do it or contact Naim for the correct settings - from memory they are 3nm for bass drivers and 2nm for BMR outer (not inner - don't touch) bolts front and back of suspension housing and definitely do underneath the stand - the leaf springs (place the locking bolts on BMR first) - these are a mix of 2.5 and 3nm - but get the PDF from Naim if your Dealer cannot do them for you.

Now this does not mean that other speakers such as the Kudos range, which I like, do not have their strengths, but at least re-baseline your system first.

All speakers drift over the years but Ovators do really need that first re-torque especially. Not too tight but correctly and to all the same setting. I found mine to sound best at just below 3 at 2.9nm I think - but go around in a loop loosen then re-torque. Don't go side-to-side as that is only done when they are first assembled - go in a clockwise or anticlockwise loop of loosen then re-torque to the setting.

Everyone that has heard the result was pretty amazed. I say all the above as the common result of the Ovators going off-spec tightness is a gradual dissatisfaction.

DB.

How do you manage the leaf spring job underneath ?  At  60kg  the 600 is heavier than me.

Regards

Roberto

2nm is a hell of a small allen key, how do you see it? Maybe you mean Nm .

rsch posted:

How do you manage the leaf spring job underneath ?  At  60kg  the 600 is heavier than me.

Regards

Roberto

I was thinking of asking the same thing. I re-torqued my speaker bolts a few years back but have never touched the leaf spring mounts. My only real idea is to lay some thick cushions or a mattress beside them. Make the platform high-enough that the bases don't have any "sideways" force on them when the speaker is laid down. They should hang off the end in free space, like feet sticking out off the end of a bed that's too short. Then with two people, gently lay the speaker on its side. (I'm guess the securing bolts are accessible from the bottom?)

Another issue I found is that removing and replacing the grills without distorting them is VERY difficult.

There are a set of bolts underneath that mean you have to:

1. Secure the BMR housing with the locking bolts (if you have not lost them).

2. Needing two strong people, so get a friend to help, you tilt the speaker onto its back on a suitable protective surface.

Then do all the bolts to the needed torque.

Don't even attempt it if not totally confident and prepared with the right tools and settings.

Don't just tighten by guess without a torque driver, as it will almost inevitably sound far worse and you will be very unhappy.
When done correctly it is very worthwhile - Naim obviously prefer the Dealer to do that as part of after sales service, but that is not available or feasible in many cases, so I'm sure Naim will provide the needed info.

DB.

No prob. fo the  torque driver, i already have one i bought especially for  the SL2. 

The big hassle is to work underneath the base.

Regards

Roberto

You can leave that part as there are plenty of improvements doing the other easy to reach parts - I did an S600 pair a few months ago for a forum member and we could not do the base as the BMR transit bolts were not available, but the result was, I'd say, a transformation of the performance. The speakers just 'woke up' and were lively and detailed after that.

The underside bolts impact the low bass and timing, but you get a lot from doing the other parts and can leave the underside for later on when you devise a plan on how to get it done.

DB.