SL2s Coming!

It's about as technical as it gets round here Simon... 

Before HH parades me through the streets completely naked, puts me into the stocks and throws rotten tomato’s at me publicly. I’d like the right of reply for what its worth, which seems to be very little around here if you are thinking outside the square without qualifications. 

i didn’t try to encourage Gavin to play with base nuts. All I was saying in the second  paragraph was what I did, you will note the first paragraph is mostly commonly known information from the forum. All I did was put it in a nut shell. 

Now to try and explain my logic. While I totally get what Richard is saying. The degree of torque that was transferred to those base hexagonal nuts was rather close to 3.6nm is that a coincidence? I really don’t think so . Sorry I probably should of originally wrote “ most were within 1/2 a turn as one was almost spot on, my bad. So to my way of thinking, and I do  apologise for thinking and sheering my thoughts (I’ll know better next time that’s for sure)

Is every connecting part that can be seen on the sl2 has a hexagonal nut that should be torqued to 3.6nm the drivers the face plates 10 in total on each speaker. So knowing these  particular nuts get hammered by vibration and heat to the point they need to be suitably addressed every year or so, while the base nuts receive a lot less and are a connection to a suspended base and probably only receive ambient room temperatures and possibly a little bit of heat from the sun.  Nevertheless heat up and cool down cycle is what it is. After 10 years and a number of set ups of they “may” of turned slightly.

My other logic (sorry that’s what I call it) only 10 out of 12 bolts are tuned to 3.6nm? At the time I did consider that these bottom bolts have been custom to each speaker just like the drivers etc. but if it’s a “cockup” I can contact Naim and get the spec so I can readjust them back to factory settings. 

Dear forum I’m sorry I didn’t consult the senior SL2 members before such a blasphemous post or even didnt think that an adjustment could be such a “cockup” (Richard it’s not btw)

Gavin pls disregard everything I’ve said, obviously I’m the village clown and have no idea what I’m talking about. 

i can certainly see how poor folk back in the day get burned at the steak.

to the post asking me about the numbers of sl2 speakers that have been made. From I’ve read here about 300  obviously not alll operating these days and I would suggest possibly 900 or 1000  people have own them who knows.

13 set ups or so,  I didn’t exactly count as it was over time but about that yes. That was with speaker positioning on a wooden sprung floor. Using different types of bolts and fraim chips under the spikes. I settled on marine grade stainless steel 10 mm bolts.  I hope that answers your questions satisfactorily . 

Oh pls forgive me for my poor grammar that’s just another fault I have.

end of rant

SL2 were the last real true Naim speaker, well perhaps apart from nSats

Visionary legendary by all means, a masterpiece not really understood by the masses, nor the dealers

Really sad to watch the current Naim speaker offerings (Focal) so lets leave it here

Oh dear yet another dig at Focal. 

Update...

Nice drive down to Chepstow yesterday morning, and a pleasant couple of hours with Bill, the seller (who's a visitor on here from time to time). Bill had left his speakers set up so I could see them in their full glory, but then we had the task of dismantling them ready for transport. Bill had essentially not touched them since they were set up by his dealer 10+ years ago, and so it was a case of the blind leading the blind as to exactly how to do it. But, we got there in the end!

The speakers are boxed up in my dining room ready for the next stage. That could be later today, or I might need to wait a few days until the front room returns to a vague state of normality. It'll be a battle of desire to get them out of the box vs. practicality of doing so.

Bill was using the speakers in active mode so I didn't see how the crossovers attach - I'm assuming it's to the back of the bottom cabinet through some obvious screw holes!

My biggest concern is adjusting the tweeter plate. I'm assuming this is the circular 'thing' around the tweeter unit. What are the signs that I'd need to do something to it?

SF - I've no problems with hearing your suggestions - it's obviously worked for you! As with all advice I'm happy to figure out what makes sense (or not) to me.

Thanks, all.

Gavin B posted:

...Bill was using the speakers in active mode so I didn't see how the crossovers attach - I'm assuming it's to the back of the bottom cabinet through some obvious screw holes!

My biggest concern is adjusting the tweeter plate. I'm assuming this is the circular 'thing' around the tweeter unit. What are the signs that I'd need to do something to it?...

Yes, the crossovers attach via the screw holes.  Just nip up until the screws just touch the rubber grommets.

As for the tweeter plate, it's just cosmetic. If you need to adjust it, just loosen off the hex bolts.  Then push from behind - it tends to get stuck against the cabinet and this is the easiest way to free it.  When the speakers are set up you just adjust this so the tweeter in centered within the surround.

To get the tweeter plate off, should you need to adjust it, you will need to have the top box sitting on the floor. Undo all four bolts and prise the plate off - it can be really hard, especially if the speakers have been left alone for so long. I’ve always pulled it from the front, rather and pushing from behind, but either should work. Then put the top box back on and adjust the plate so the tweeter sits centrally. Then nip up the four bolts with the Allen key. 

Congratulations on your new purchase but please get some pics up, I’d love to see them. 

Gavin, if Bill has not move them for 10 years then he’s been missing the best of them for about 9. I may of missed this but did you get those washer and pips from a dealer/Naim  yet?  As a humble suggestion you  probably should just get the bases set up until you receive your torque device and washers. Pls follow the forums sl2 bible guide.

if your SL2 come in at 2008 you will find that the  xovers screw holes have been set at a depth where you can’t really over tighten them to the point of crushing the rubbers as opposed to previous years. eg  my experience is with 2004 set. The screw just hits home then you pull them off a wee bit. Once you have them setup you will find that the speakers will take a bit of time to come on song. Keeping in mine those rather large xovers haven’t been used for all those years. My sl2 speaker situation at the time of   purchase sounds exactly the same as you but in black. 

Oh the tweeter plate. 1nm on the fastness seems to be going consensus.

Going back to the sheer purity of the SL2s, once you have set them up (which really isn't too difficult), I bet you'll find you never want any other speaker. My beautiful maple pair will be with me until I move on to that great HiFi shop in the sky. I so agree with Perol, in that the SL2 was never really understood by the masses or the dealers. Interestingly, when my dealer came to hear my active SL2 setup, he said 'God, I never knew SL2s could sound like that....'

Gavin B posted:

Hi All

Following a bit of good timing, I'm shortly to become the new owner of a pre-loved pair of SL2s. I'm picking them up this coming weekend.

I've read the thread of set-up tips from Richard D. et al, and whilst I'm happy to give it a go, it's a bit daunting.

I'd like to explore another avenue - getting someone to come in to help me with the set-up. This could be a dealer or an experienced individual. Obviously, this is likely to be a service I pay for, and I'm happy to do so, but the difficulty is finding that person. I don't have a relationship with a local dealer (not since the demise of Sound Advice etc. in Loughborough), and my previous purchases (olive to black system swap, quite a few years ago) have been through the renowned St. Albans-base dealer.

So, are you aware of someone offering this service, or willing to help me with the set-up? I'm based near Tamworth in the Midlands.

I'm looking forward to getting them set up, but it might not be immediately - the front room is piled high with stuff from another room we're busy decorating.

Thanks

Gavin

Congrats Gavin - it took me over a year to find a pair for sale especially in Maple to match the rest of my speakers (n-Sats, n-Sub). Setting them up was a challenge but part of the fun! 

Enjoy! 

Richard Dane posted:

Gavin B posted:

...Bill was using the speakers in active mode so I didn't see how the crossovers attach - I'm assuming it's to the back of the bottom cabinet through some obvious screw holes!

My biggest concern is adjusting the tweeter plate. I'm assuming this is the circular 'thing' around the tweeter unit. What are the signs that I'd need to do something to it?...

Yes, the crossovers attach via the screw holes.  Just nip up until the screws just touch the rubber grommets.

As for the tweeter plate, it's just cosmetic. If you need to adjust it, just loosen off the hex bolts.  Then push from behind - it tends to get stuck against the cabinet and this is the easiest way to free it.  When the speakers are set up you just adjust this so the tweeter in centered within the surround.

@Richard Dane et al...

Any tips for loosening the tweeter plates? I need to adjust both, and they seem to be stuck solid! I’ve got a torque wrench and have loosened the hex bolts.

Hurrah. First one has popped loose!

And oh bo**ocks. I tried to tighten the nuts on the bass drivers and was worrying that I was when one of the nuts ‘cracked’ and came loose. Damn and blast (and generally much stronger words).

Anything I can do?

A very stressful speaker for all of us with perfectionist tendencies. I loved my pair and are very happy it’s  gone. How about that? 

//Jonas

Gavin B posted:

And oh bo**ocks. I tried to tighten the nuts on the bass drivers and was worrying that I was when one of the nuts ‘cracked’ and came loose. Damn and blast (and generally much stronger words).

Anything I can do?

That’s not good but did they even need to be tightened anyway? I’ve never touched the tweeter plates or or bass driver nuts since getting mine the best part of 8 years ago.

If it aint broke & all that...

Hopefully you can source some identical nuts or maybe Naim themselves can supply or point you in the right direction.

Gavin B posted:

And oh bo**ocks. I tried to tighten the nuts on the bass drivers and was worrying that I was when one of the nuts ‘cracked’ and came loose. Damn and blast (and generally much stronger words).

Anything I can do?

What torque were you set at on the driver? If too much then you may have damaged the insert. You’ll need to talk to Naim to see if anything can be done. 

As for the tweeter surround plates. Just loosen off the bolts and push from behind to free them - best done with the top box off the speaker, obviously.

Richard Dane posted:

Gavin B posted:

And oh bo**ocks. I tried to tighten the nuts on the bass drivers and was worrying that I was when one of the nuts ‘cracked’ and came loose. Damn and blast (and generally much stronger words).

Anything I can do?

What torque were you set at on the driver? If too much then you may have damaged the insert. You’ll need to talk to Naim to see if anything can be done. 

As for the tweeter surround plates. Just loosen off the bolts and push from behind to free them - best done with the top box off the speaker, obviously.

Hi Richard

I had them set at 3.6Nm. I'll email support for advice.

I eventually got the second tweeter plate loose with some careful application of force! The plates are now nicely aligned to allow the tweeters to move freely.

Thanks

Gavin

Richard Dane posted:

Gavin B posted:

And oh bo**ocks. I tried to tighten the nuts on the bass drivers and was worrying that I was when one of the nuts ‘cracked’ and came loose. Damn and blast (and generally much stronger words).

Anything I can do?

What torque were you set at on the driver? If too much then you may have damaged the insert. You’ll need to talk to Naim to see if anything can be done. 

As for the tweeter surround plates. Just loosen off the bolts and push from behind to free them - best done with the top box off the speaker, obviously.

Gavin, I know it’s a bit late but in the future loosen off a bit then torque. Somebody may of lock tight  the buggers in, you never know in the secondhand market. I feel for you mate, don’t worry. All can be fixed. 

Richard, I spent a good 3 1/2 hours trying to free up sl2 tweeter wooden surround plates on Sunday. 2004 model, I’m sure they haven’t been move since then as they were well stuck, like s”””t to a blanket. At the time I recalled HH saying to push from the inside. Well in that year you can’t as a rather thick slab of MDF is on the othe side of the front plate and that is part of the speaker box. Though a little bit of the front plate can be seen about 2/3 mm on part of the circular opening edge. Which in that instance was rendered absolutely hopeless. I ended up just setting the tweeter by the vertical arms holding the tweeter as playing with the other would put the front face of the tweeter out. Not ideal but a good sized hammer was starting to look good by that time. Complete nightmare. Yes I used his wife’s hair dryer to heat it up and taking care not to heat the woffer.

I’ve been thinking about how to get those wooden tweeter surrounds off.  piano wire but where is that when you don’t have a piano,  or a razor blade but I can see that ending up at the hospital. Any ideas??

Yes I know it should really of just all lined up perfectly   but it doesn’t, trust me I got that covered. Level base etc

Actually, it was Richard who suggested pushing from behind, whereas I suggested pulling from the front. If you are determined to contradict my advice please at least get your facts straight. 

My first one came off eventually by pulling from the front, but the second simply would not. The second one was sufficiently off-centre to be attack-able from the back. I wrapped a big screwdriver head in cardboard and tapped with a hammer until it started to come loose.

hungryhalibut posted:

To get the tweeter plate off, should you need to adjust it, you will need to have the top box sitting on the floor. Undo all four bolts and prise the plate off - it can be really hard, especially if the speakers have been left alone for so long. I’ve always pulled it from the front, rather and pushing from behind, but either should work. Then put the top box back on and adjust the plate so the tweeter sits centrally. Then nip up the four bolts with the Allen key. 

Oh, I’m sorry HH. When you said “either should work” I was under the impression that you agreed with that method . My bad not your idea it’s Richards,  just you thought it would be ok.

Hey, did you know the tweeter mount plate that connects to the verticals. Those 3 bolts should be torqued up to 3.6nm as well. Phill at Naim told me in a lovely email all about the torque settings for the SL2 speaker. Great to know???? It’s great to share these things. Particular when forum members inadvertently mislead others by saying as tight as possible (yuk it makes things all toppy) I mean after all nobody knew to torque up the face plates yearly until Chris in Auckland figured It out way back in 2008. He didn’t seem to get paraded naked in the street for his findings? But hey that was then and this is now. Have a great day????

Gavin B posted:

My first one came off eventually by pulling from the front, but the second simply would not. The second one was sufficiently off-centre to be attack-able from the back. I wrapped a big screwdriver head in cardboard and tapped with a hammer until it started to come loose.

You are a very lucky man for it to be off centre. 

That's one of the problems when buying secondhand - you just don't know what may have happened in the past.  I wonder whether the bolts were overtightened in the past and damaged the fixing or the cabinet.  It may well necessitate removing the driver and trying to repair the fixing as best as possible.  

If it ain't broke....fix it till it is ....