Advice on going active with SBLs, NAC72 and 2 NAP180s with SNAXO242

Posted by: ct on 22 November 2018

I'm currently running CDX2>NAC72>HICAP>NAP180>SBL and am very happy with the results however as I already have a second, recently serviced, NAP180 I have just managed to source a pre-loved SNAXO242 in order to try the SBLs in active mode.

Whilst trying to get to grips with the connection guides I'm afraid I may have either misunderstood the requirements for the equipment I need to have in order to achieve this or cannot find the correct wiring diagram so would be grateful of any shared wisdom please or a pointer to previous posts which may help (as my searches haven't turned anything up yet)

I thought it might be possible to use my current hicap to power the Snaxo and run my 72 "bare" until another hicap is added when funds allow but am not sure if this is correct now?

Thanks for any help or pointers

Posted on: 22 November 2018 by Richard Dane

CT, you will need another Hicap. Also you’ll need active leads for the NAP180s as two SNAICs can push the SNAXO into instability.

Posted on: 22 November 2018 by ct

Thanks Richard, I appreciate the advice and will look to getting these sorted. 

Looking forward to hearing the SBLs active as I've read so many good things about their performance....

Posted on: 22 November 2018 by Bruce Woodhouse

I ran a not dissimilar system some years ago, with 2 x 140 driving the SBL. I think you will get a significant kick in performance.

As well as the cables mentioned above and a PS for the SNAXO (the best you can afford-it makes a real difference) you will also need another identical set of speaker cables too.

There are good connection guides in the Naim database (look at the current SNAXO manual and adapt accordingly) but it can be quite confusing so take your time. Remember that the signal from preamp goes out to the crossover PS, then that connects to the SNAXO and this connects to the two amps (with the cables mentioned by Richard) with one amp handling high freq and one low freq.

Make sure you label the ends of your speaker cable sets carefully with stickers ie RHS high freq/low freq and LHS high/low etc. It helps a lot when stringing it all together.

Connect all cables with the sleeve marker closest to the source.

You will need to remove the crossovers from the back of the speakers which is very simple. If you want to avoid lifting the SBLs out because they are nicely positioned and level then stick some cardboard in the gap between the boxes and see if you can get a spare hand to lean them a little forward whilst you unscrew the crossover. Hopefully you can then lean them back and not lose the position.

Bruce

https://www.naimaudio.com/site...erman%20Iss%201A.pdf

This is the connection guide

Posted on: 22 November 2018 by Bruce Woodhouse

Sorry, to be really clear the signal path is source >> pre-amp >> pre-amp PS >> SNAXO PS >> SNAXO and then split to each Power amp.

Bruce

Posted on: 22 November 2018 by ct

Thanks Bruce, great explanation, you've just made it seem a whole lot clearer

Looking forward to sharing thoughts on the results

Nice Stag picture by the way, yours?

Posted on: 23 November 2018 by Bruce Woodhouse

If it appears clear that worries me! Every time I take my system apart for some reason I make myself plan it out on paper first as it still confuses me.

The Stag is indeed mine, and a truly lovely thing it is too.

Bruce

Posted on: 23 November 2018 by Suzy Wong

And just to be sure, CT, your SNAXO is a 242 in a modern BLACK case, rather than the older Olive-fronted case (SNAXO 2-4).  They are wired differently, and we don’t want fried tweeters!

Posted on: 23 November 2018 by ct

good call but, yes thanks, its the black case 242, will still be a little cautious when connecting everything up though.....

Posted on: 23 November 2018 by Innocent Bystander

A tip in case it is helpful: I’ve used coloured insulating tape on speaker cables (both ends), on power amp inputs and outputs, on speaker connections, crossover outputs, and used the same colour XLR bands on both ends of crossover-power amp interconnects. Nice set of rainbow colour markers on everything (excluding the elusive indigo), running through bass-mid-treble one channel than the other. I’ve written on the insulating tape as well on the crossover outputs. Admittedly mine is more complex because 3-way, but the idea is to minimise risk of catastrophic error if ever anything needs dosconnecting, and even facilitates anyone else reconnecting correctly if for any reason I am not there and something needs moving (which of course should not happen).

Posted on: 24 November 2018 by mlauner

Try to keep snaics and speaker cables from touching. You should be very happy with the results from going active. A bit more work however.

Posted on: 24 November 2018 by ct

Have sorted cables, just trying to get a Hicap organised and then the fun begins all over again