Naim NAC-A5 essential?
Posted by: Bas V on 14 September 2000
Last week I bought a Naim CDI. Really great, it sounds a lot better than the CD3(.5). Originally I wanted a CD2, but these are rather difficult to find, more expensive and I think now not that much better. Anyway, I wanted to know, how you all think about using Naim speaker cable with Naim amplification. Currently I use Ocos speaker with my NAP90/3 and Monitor Audio Studio 2's. I have listened to Naim speaker cable, but I couldn't notice a big difference. I have also heard this setup with MIT cabling, which sounded just great in my ears. So, what's the deal here?
Regards, Bas
Depends on who you talk to. Naim recommened NACA5 in minimum lengths of 3.5 meters to be essential for the safe operation of their power amps.
I used bi-wired QED79 strand for many years between my NAP180 and Linn Index II's and did not have any problems at all.
Having said that when I changed to single runs of NACA5 I found a huge difference in the sound (much much better), and my 180 runs a lot cooler.
So I'm not sure if A5 is really essential ( I'm sure some of the old timers here will probably disagree with me completly), but I would think that not using it is fairly likely to mean your power amp needs servicing after a lot shorter period of time.
Simon
Never said you were daft. I'm completly converted to A5. The only way I'll change this is either
1) Get rid of my Naim kit (oh look there goes another one of those flying pigs)
2) Naim bring out something better.
I would point out that the dealer that sold me my original Naim 62/140 and the Linn Index , many years ago actually recommened using the bi-wired QED, my current dealer said ditch it and use the A5, so I did. The best 60 pounds I've spent in a long time, and probably my most cost effective upgrade ever.
Simon
quote:
The 180 is one of the coolest running amps in the Naim range
James, the running hot was subjective. My 180 used to run to the stage of being warm to the touch even at the fairly modest volumes I listen at most of the time (neccesity not choice). Now with the A5 it tends to run at about room temperature, occasionally going slightly warm on the rare occasions that I get to really crank up the volume.
Simon
quote:
I bought some new NACA5 (single run this time), put the jumpers back in the speakers. Big difference and a cost effective tweak if your NAC A5 is showing its age.
Ditch the jumpers / links as they all seem to degrade the sound, and solder two sets of Naim speaker plugs onto the A5 as below:
_______________________II_____II
'___' is the A5 and 'II' are the speaker plugs.
It’s a bit of a pain to get the cable stripped neatly and the plugs in exactly the right place, but the sonic gains are really worth it. Just check everything fits before actually soldering it.
The difference in mid band articulation is really quite large. My own Kan IIs with the link in place favour whichever driver the A5 is plugged into. With the link removed and the extra plugs the crossover point between the drivers is seamless, and the sound is much more open and clear.
Tony.
--Eric
in response to your question: Yes.
Absolutely. Unquestionably.
Oh, and welcome!
Rico - musichead
quote:
Instead of soldering the extra connectors, try opening up the speakers. On many, you can just move the internal connectors from the tweeter to the binding post for the woofer (or vice versa).
Excellent - why didn't I think of that when I had my old ProAc Tab 50 Sigs, the amount of time I wasted with different links… and it would have been simple.
I now have Kan IIs, where it would be a simple matter of cutting through the grill cloth, levering off the 'non-removable' grill frame, removing the mastic'd in bass drivers, soldering the leads to the other sockets, re-masticing and bolting back the bass drivers hoping the air-tight seal is as good as Linn got it, re-skinning the grill frames with fresh grill cloth, and gluing them back in place…
Tony.
Bas
I now have Kan IIs, where it would be a simple matter of cutting through the grill cloth, levering off the 'non-removable' grill frame, removing the mastic'd in bass drivers, soldering the leads to the other sockets, re-masticing and bolting back the bass drivers hoping the air-tight seal is as good asLinn got it, re-skinning the grill frames with fresh grill cloth, and gluing them back in place...
Tony, you are such a wag!
Bob
--Eric
No, the only way into a Kan is as Tony describes - rip it apart (eg go in through the front), and pray you get it back together again. Makes ES11's look easy, even.
Rico - musichead