Airplug for a SuperLine: A Real Deal

Kuma,

Does this mean you are regularly using your Miyabi 47 with the Superline? Just wondering, because earlier you stated that it worked best with the 47 Labs Phono Cube...

quote:

Originally posted by kuma:
I finally had an opportunity to play with one. ( thanks Pat! )

Indeed very nice!
The improvements are not at all subtle and I hope Naim would consider making a production version of it.

Yes! As you know Jon H and I have achieved excellent results too and I really hope HQ makes one.

Interested you are "tail off", that was on the list of things to try next, as our version 2 with a short tail was certainly better than version 1, although there was more pin de-coupling and pin 2 removal. With no tail there is less to move. Looks like all you need is a good end cover!

I haven't gone any further yet myself as I'm hoping too that the factory will give a try as I'm sure they have the expertise to get it dead right for us. However, do they actually have the time at the moment? We had better be patient

Best regards,

Peter

Do you think that the decoupled pins of the Airplug make the difference to the standard metal plug (Preh)? I could imagine that removing all the metal of the standard plug away from the tiny signal could be a reason, too. This would decrease eddy currents. Furthermore the metal and/or plating of the pins in the Airplug is probably of a better quality, too. Have you tried different types of resistors (Vishay, pp) - not meaning different values (Ohm)?

Hi Kuma, nice post, very interesting . . . I whish I knew what on earth a Miyabi is and an Airplug too, no to mention a 220R . . . . I just wanted to point out however, that it is a shame your pictures are a little bit foggy and unclear . . . .
LOL!!!

quote:

Originally posted by John R.:
Do you think that the decoupled pins of the Airplug make the difference to the standard metal plug (Preh)? I could imagine that removing all the metal of the standard plug away from the tiny signal could be a reason, too. This would decrease eddy currents. Furthermore the metal and/or plating of the pins in the Airplug is probably of a better quality, too. Have you tried different types of resistors (Vishay, pp) - not meaning different values (Ohm)?

Yes, I believe all of what you state above can and does have an effect. Also effective de-coupling of the loading resistors so they don't impede free movement of the pins has a big effect. Removal of the un-connected pin 2 as well.

So many things that need full and proper research by HQ when they have time.

Best regards,

Peter

I had a highly entertaining few hours tonight with a Phonosophie No.3/Miyabi/47.

Normally I would not describe this table as *fun* next to the Sondek, yet with the Airplug-ed Superline, every note is delivered right on the dime making the No.3 much more of a shaker and groover.

I normally do not use the Miyabi with the No.3 because at a high volume, upper midrange was a tad shouty and congealed. (somewhat resembling an overload )

With the Airplug, whatever the reason, no longer. I hear much less distortion particularly in high frequency range.

aht,

You're right. I went back to the Phonocube because I wasn't getting the *magic* midrange out of the cartridge. It was a less of an issue with the Briks.
They don't have a recessed midrange of the Wilson so its shortcoming was somewhat minimised.

Plus, I was so bowled over from the Sondek/Briks experience whatever the shortcoming, I wouldn't have cared.

I did not have the Sondek long enough to bring the Phonocube downstairs but that would have been an interesting listen.

I still suspect some tweaking needs to be done on the correct loading on the M47 and that since the Phonocube is specifically developed for the cartridge, it does seem to bring the unique voicing of the cartridge the best. They claim its input impedance is zero and amplifies the current rather than voltage.

If I could just get that midrange, it would be good since the Airplug addressed the rest of the issue I had with a standard plug.

John R.

Much of the Naim magic seems to live in those plugs.
Even the Powerline, if you remove its purpose made plug, much of good thing is gone. ( tonal balance stayed the same, but much of the control and linearity were gone )

So, there's something happening inside this unassuming plug.
Removing a centre pin, supposedly helps, but I haven't done a direct AB so I don't know how much influence it would have.

I don't know if anyone experimented with *designer* resistors. Naim traditionally avoid fancy parts and instead they seem to go for a tighter tolerance on garden variety parts. Given the fact that the Superline is probably voiced with standard parts, it's prudent to stick to what factory used.

Andrea!

The Miyabi/47 is one of my favourite I use on the ARO and Sondek. It's a bold, colourful and dynamic but very natural sounding MC cartridge.

It's an absolute killer in the midrange, but does a great disco as well.

Peter,

I realise that Naim has a full plate of to-do projects, but I hope this one gets on the list soon.

I gotta tell you that Julian wasn't perhaps completely crazy after all to pick this table in place of an LP12.

Still it does not resemble the Sondek, but with the right ancillaries, the Phonosophie No.3 can dance pretty good.

quote:

Originally posted by kuma:

With the Airplug, whatever the reason, no longer. I hear much less distortion particularly in high frequency range.

Much of the Naim magic seems to live in those plugs.

So, there's something happening inside this unassuming plug.
Removing a centre pin, supposedly helps, but I haven't done a direct AB so I don't know how much influence it would have.

I don't know if anyone experimented with *designer* resistors. Naim traditionally avoid fancy parts and instead they seem to go for a tighter tolerance on garden variety parts. Given the fact that the Superline is probably voiced with standard parts, it's prudent to stick to what factory used.

Peter,

I realise that Naim has a full plate of to-do projects, but I hope this one gets on the list soon.

Less distortion - Yes! When talking to Jon Honeyball about it I/we described it as less hash IMHO so I believe we are hearing the same improvements.

Removal of the un-connected pin - More of the same, less hash hence even more music! IMHO

I have been sticking to factory supplied resistors FYI, but I have been individually measuring them and pairing them up before assembly.

Kind regards,

Peter

yes factory supplied resistors plus matching them to a very tight tolerance. (to the 100th)

we have found leaving the center pin in helps. but its all down to preference.

So once you have found the best resistor value by using these plugs, why not remove all variable factors such as airplug/DIN plug etc by opening the superline and soldering the chosen resistors directly onto the back of the DIN socket or the main circuit board?

quote:

Originally posted by kuma:
Andrea!
The Miyabi/47 is one of my favourite I use on the ARO and Sondek. It's a bold, colourful and dynamic but very natural sounding MC cartridge.

It's an absolute killer in the midrange, but does a great disco as well.

Kuma, last picture, here above, is absolutely amazing . . . . I could even dare to ask you details about hardware involved into the making of it . . . if I was sure this wouldn't bother you . . . . while, as for the expertise and taste expressed, they are so obvious even to a stranger to art of picture making, like I am . . . . any way, thanks for your informations . . . .
cheers
Andrea

quote:

Originally posted by Jo Sharp:
So once you have found the best resistor value by using these plugs, why not remove all variable factors such as airplug/DIN plug etc by opening the superline and soldering the chosen resistors directly onto the back of the DIN socket or the main circuit board?

Sure.

I think that's how most DIY types would swap the loading.
But then, it's a PITA if you want to change a cartridge with different load requirements.

andrea,

Sorry. I've missed your earlier post.

I just use my old Nikon Coolpix P2. Nothing fancy.

quote:

Originally posted by kuma:

I just use my old Nikon Coolpix P2. Nothing fancy.

So it's not what you have, it's how you use it! I'll keep trying with my little pocket Panasonic then!

Serious note. With all those caps etc. etc. etc. inside the box, I really wouldn't.

Kind regards,

Peter

quote:

Originally posted by Jo Sharp:
So once you have found the best resistor value by using these plugs, why not remove all variable factors such as airplug/DIN plug etc by opening the superline and soldering the chosen resistors directly onto the back of the DIN socket or the main circuit board?

you really really really really do not want to go inside your superline with a soldering iron

thats REALLY dont want to do this. Trust me on this.

heres the reasons:

1) there are some *extremely* long timeconstant circuits in there which remain "live" for a long time even after power down and disconnect. I'm not talking a few minutes, I'm talking tens of minutes. *Possibly even an hour or more*. Touch the wrong thing with your iron, and fzzzt.

2) the rear of the superline, around the burndy socket and the signal sockets, is very crowded. See 1) above

3) you have to engage the transit locks before moving superline, and ESPECIALLY before turning it over. Otherwise the whole sprung suspension thing will have a wobble.

4) warranty? What warranty? That'll be the small furry thing disappearing over the horizon...

Sorry, but the din plugs are there for *very* good reasons.

jon

Jon,

This was enough to scare the amateurs.

Apart from all circumstances the question is which way is better? What is the problem to have two phono stages, if you want to play with loadings? SL is cheaper than the largest PSU. Remember the prefix? This should be done with SL at naim and will cost less than the air plug.

Emil

I have no problem with asking naim servicing to solder in some resistors for you, if they are prepared and willing to do that.

As for scaring people, my comment of "trust me on this" was not meant lightly :-)

I know about similar problems with LP12's Valhalla. Two hours, they say.

quote:

Originally posted by kuma:
andrea,

Sorry. I've missed your earlier post.

I just use my old Nikon Coolpix P2. Nothing fancy.

Always kind Kuma . . . . congratulations, really . . . excellent, and thanks, for the info.
Cheers
PS and yes, as The Doc says, it is the handle's holder the does the job . . . .

quote:

Originally posted by Cymbiosis:
So it's not what you have, it's how you use it! I'll keep trying with my little pocket Panasonic then!

Peter,

I like your Panasonic. A friend has one and I liked it very much. I might even upgrade to yours!

As for soldering the resistors vs. Airplug, someone ought to do an AB and report back!

Very, funny ha, ha! Excellent for carrying round in one's pocket though.

As for soldering..... I'll be keeping it to the plugs I think.

Kind regards,

Peter

quote:

As for soldering..... I'll be keeping it to the plugs I think. Smile

makes sense to me...

enjoy
ken

Personally, I don't see the point of it either as sometimes soldering directly isn't the best way to deal with vibration.

Anyways, the Airplug itself is a huge improvement in that I am so pleased with the results. ( still! )