Plug adapter to UK 3 PIN Plug

The Schuko has two small metal strips on either side of the plug : that's the earth.

Avoid an adaptor.  Fit a good quality UK plug. Any adaptor will potentially be the biggest compromise here.

Thank you both - will have a rethink, but got the answers i wanted.

What is it you think is compromised on the uk 3 pin version ?

You could get a few schuko cables to power everything connected to a schuko distribution block, then connect that up with a uk 3 pin to your wall.

One way in which a UK plug could be though of as compromised is the fact that it has to be fused. This is because of the different way in which UK mains circuits are designed compared to European and others. Using an adapter, such as those designed for travel use, would avoid the use of a fuse, and therefore would be potentially dangerous on a UK mains circuit. They are intended for low powered appliances, not permanently placed items such as big Naim PSUs. 

The main compromise is the US version i believe is soldered and graphene applied to all connectors and contacts.

There is another type of plug similar to the Schuko (usable in a Shuko socket, but not vice versa), which have a third pin: the pin protrudes from the socket, and the plug has a hole (the French standard socket I believe). That type is non-reversible. So if the socket on the cable you like has a hole for an earth pin it is that not Shucko, even if called a Shucko (I have come across such plugs incorrectly described as Schuko, as if that is the name for the generic style). If that is the type then a distributor block as Tobyjug suggests but choosing one with of this type with earth pins would ensure the correct polarity of live and neutral.

Aside from that, same question re what seems compromised with the UK plug version?

Obsydian posted:

The main compromise is the US version i believe is soldered and graphene applied to all connectors and contacts.

You could then get one of the US distribution blocks from Synergistic Research. The QLS which has the usual iec connection for a UK cable with a blue fuse.

If the QLS is specific to 120v because of some active device, Nordost do the Qbase in US without any specified voltage requirement.

ChrisSU posted:

One way in which a UK plug could be though of as compromised is the fact that it has to be fused. This is because of the different way in which UK mains circuits are designed compared to European and others. Using an adapter, such as those designed for travel use, would avoid the use of a fuse, and therefore would be potentially dangerous on a UK mains circuit. They are intended for low powered appliances, not permanently placed items such as big Naim PSUs. 

I'm fairly sure that adaptors to allow use of non-UK plugs into UK sockets have to be fused, otherwise they would be potentially hazardous.

I would do as Richard suggests and fit a good UK plug, (such as the MK one that Naim used on their standard power cables before the Powerline Lite came along).

best

David

Depending we’re you are in the world it is possible to find adaptors that fit a non-fused Schuko or Aus or USA or AN Other plugs into UK 13A 3 pin sockets with or without fuses,  all dodgy, but the non-fused ones are hazardous as they do not comply to UUk BS safety standards

Best advice is avoid any & all adapters & fit the correct plug (Male) for your power supply. 

Innocent Bystander posted:

There is another type of plug similar to the Schuko (usable in a Shuko socket, but not vice versa), which have a third pin: the pin protrudes from the socket, and the plug has a hole (the French standard socket I believe). That type is non-reversible. So if the socket on the cable you like has a hole for an earth pin it is that not Shucko, even if called a Shucko (I have come across such plugs incorrectly described as Schuko, as if that is the name for the generic style). If that is the type then a distributor block as Tobyjug suggests but choosing one with of this type with earth pins would ensure the correct polarity of live and neutral.

Aside from that, same question re what seems compromised with the UK plug version?

You're quite right - simply, both types are used in France, reversible (far better) and non reversible..

Mcru do a fused converter.

Basically I purchased an SR Power cable, was pretty amazing, but I could not get over the morons just fitting a £2 master plug, owner of SR said not worth their while I said why offer the option if you don't do it properly (for all except the UK plug the use in house designed plugs and then lashings of graphed on the connection).

I sent the power cable back to the USA for a full refund no questions asked, I even mentioned i had butchered it somewhat as thought I could use a spare Naim Powerline plug (cable was a monster and would not fit without reworking the plu) that's when rhought the plug had no graphene treatment which SR confirmed.

But I also could see each cable was as stated, in house bespoke.

Most of all not having the power cable, has pretty much reduced my listening from say 2hrs a day to maybe 2hrs a week.

So I thought buy a stock US, Why No or AUZ cable and then used the fused MCRU adapter, plus allows me to use the SR blue fuse.

Richard Dane posted:

ChrisSU posted:

One way in which a UK plug could be though of as compromised is the fact that it has to be fused. This is because of the different way in which UK mains circuits are designed compared to European and others. Using an adapter, such as those designed for travel use, would avoid the use of a fuse, and therefore would be potentially dangerous on a UK mains circuit. They are intended for low powered appliances, not permanently placed items such as big Naim PSUs. 

I'm fairly sure that adaptors to allow use of non-UK plugs into UK sockets have to be fused, otherwise they would be potentially hazardous.

The adapters I’ve seen are unfused, and are labelled as for low power devices only. Without a fuse I’m not sure they are either safe or legal, but either way I wouldn’t run the HiFi through one. 

A UK adaptor that allows non-UK power plugs to be connected to a UK socket should always be fused. 

ChrisSU posted:

Richard Dane posted:

ChrisSU posted:

One way in which a UK plug could be though of as compromised is the fact that it has to be fused. This is because of the different way in which UK mains circuits are designed compared to European and others. Using an adapter, such as those designed for travel use, would avoid the use of a fuse, and therefore would be potentially dangerous on a UK mains circuit. They are intended for low powered appliances, not permanently placed items such as big Naim PSUs. 

I'm fairly sure that adaptors to allow use of non-UK plugs into UK sockets have to be fused, otherwise they would be potentially hazardous.

The adapters I’ve seen are unfused, and are labelled as for low power devices only. Without a fuse I’m not sure they are either safe or legal, but either way I wouldn’t run the HiFi through one. 

It is not a legal requirement to have fused plugs in the UK... and BS546 (round pin) plugs which these days are almost always used for specialist applications don’t need to be fused for example ... and most are not..but these days are not usually found in a domestic setting... unless perhaps for high end lighting distribution circuits.

Therefore for personal safety and general common sense it makes sense to use a fused adapter in a general domestic setting, and significantly better still for non transient/ temporary  connections  replace the plug to match the local socket... oh yes replacing the plug and removing an adapter should sound better too (it reduces the mains impedance).

Interesting CE marks don’t apply to un tethered plugs and sockets.. so such a mark on a device is not really meaningful and might point point to it being fraudulently applied

Simon, round pin sockets are limited to being used on low amperage circuits though - essentially protected by the fuse or breaker at the fuse box, either 3-5A for small or 15A for large. Modern square edged three pin sockets can be fitted on circuits rated much higher, hence the need for a fuse to protect the flex.

As you say, always best to avoid an adaptor if possible and fit a proper suitable (fused in the UK) plug.

In all probabilities there’s probably nothing wrong with the Masterplug plug fitted - most UK plugs are much of a muchness, including the famous MK Toughplug in its latest version - they mostly all have brass pins with a hole to pass the wire through and a grubscrew to hold it there, in similar plastic bodies. If you want to replace it just lop it off and fit a MK Safetyplug - the one with the binding posts, but you need to know how to dress the cable to get best use of these. All the “audiophile” plugs I’ve seen have a clamp like fastening for the wires, which doesn’t seem to give as good a mechanical connection as the MK. They also seem to have cruddy self tapping screws to hold the two parts together, which I don’t like - I much prefer the brass bolt/nut type of affair in the MK.

As to whether they sound different I’ll let someone else comment. I trust the MKs more, both physically and electrically so tend to stick with those. I’ve heard no improvements when swapping for “audiophile” plugs (though I’ve only tried 3 or 4 brands), others opinions may be different. I’m sticking with “better safe than sorry” .

Hi TALLGUY it is more the SR graphene process that I think gives the improvement, the UK version they provide is stock

I did consider rewiring to a Naim Poweline plug, no way the cable could get through, I also have the old Naim MK and Crabtree, which with some cutting may have allowed the cable to fit.

Obsydian posted:

The main compromise is the US version i believe is soldered and graphene applied to all connectors and contacts.

Where does the graphene go in the plug? Completely irrelevant if the wires are doldered, so presumably only with wires screwed/clamped in some way. Graphene is a very good electrical conductor, so if it is applied to the bare wire ends or the terminal cantact surfaces it conceivably could fill gaps and reduce contact resistance between wire and plug components - but I am intrigued as to how it is applied: Presumably not a dust of nanotubes (or nanoribbons or platelets as that may could present  a risk of the dust causing tracking to unintended parts. Maybe particles suspended in a sticky matrix - but that would reduce the supposed advantage, while still having something that could migrate unless it sets to a firmly adhering solid. Maybe a wrap of a graphene tape on the wire ends before insertion- but with a serious safety risk should it, a fragment of conductive tape, become detached, e.g in the event that the terminal is not tightened sufficiently.

Given the contact surfaces between plug pins and mains socket, it strikes me that to reduce the resistance, rather than mess around with graphene in the plug it would seem better to hardwire the cable direct into a mains outlet (for which for safety, unless the circuit breaker has a low enough rating to protect the cable, a fused outlet can be used). that would remove one set of contact surfaces from the mains supply.

So how big is this cable if it won’t fit into a Crabtree, MK or Naim plug ?

The main body with the mesh shield is 1.5 inches and the section coming out of the mesh has heat shrink and is 1.0 inch, then the final 3 wires come out, combined just over 0.5 inch and not uniform.

I wanted to shoehorn it into a Naim Powerline plug, the an MK, but without hacking the plug not possible, that is how they managed to fit it into a Masterplug,, but then they heat shrunk upto the live and neutral prime one the plug meaning it would not even sit flat.

It was only due the cutting the heat shrink away from the plug mating surface that I saw the inside, which was impressive hand assembled cabling.

Usually the fit their own custom mains plugs, all plug connectors are coated with graphene, in addition to to cable and then able the surrounding shield.

So, if I’m reading this right the manufacturer has taken a Stanley knife (or similar ) to the masterplug plug so the cables fit, but altered the structure in so doing, then applied heat-shrink to cover the hacking ? 

Again  if I’m reading correctly they cut off cable  insulation to make it thinner so it fits into the plug  and the last section only has one layer of insulation (forgetting the heat-shrink). I’m not sure that heat-shrink counts as an insulating layer.

if so then that’s why they’ve used the Masterplug as it’s easy to cut compared with an MK (or the Naim) ( as you’ve discovered). I think this hacking makes the plug fail to reach British Standards as it’s been”modified”

I can’t find a decent picture of this on the net, but it does sound as though it may not meet British Standards for such items. I’m not sure I’d be letting it anywhere near a mains socket in my house. 

For comparison our 64A central heating boiler has cable that thick - I doubt any amp can draw 15kW, but that’s a whole different cable argument

Yes pretty much, hence why I returned it and had a pop at the owner who basically said we can't be arsed.

Hence why I am considering an adapter to a US or School as that is all done bespoke in house.

Richard Dane posted:

Simon, round pin sockets are limited to being used on low amperage circuits though - essentially protected by the fuse or breaker at the fuse box, either 3-5A for small or 15A for large. Modern square edged three pin sockets can be fitted on circuits rated much higher, hence the need for a fuse to protect the flex.

As you say, always best to avoid an adaptor if possible and fit a proper suitable (fused in the UK) plug.

Quite - a UK ring main, or a dedicated radial as per Naim's recommendation, might have a 32 amp MCB, or even higher, in which case I can't see how an unfused plug could be either safe, or compliant with UK regs.