The Hugo of streaming?
Posted by: charlesphoto on 14 June 2016
Ha, knew that would get your attention!
I was using my UQ1 for streaming only purposes to the DAC V1 via a good s/pdif cable, but was never entirely happy with the set up, esp as the UQ was mostly going to waste. My budget wasn't much, and I didn't want to just move over to another streamer, esp as the asynch USB on the V1 is one of its main features, and supposedly better sounding than coax. I considered a Mac Mini, but then started reading over on the Computer Audiophile forum raves about the forthcoming Sonore microRendu. So last week I got in on the second batch and have had one up and running since Friday with an iFi power supply until I get a proper linear power supply for it (probably the upcoming Uptone LPS based on charging ultracapacitors).
For those not in the know, the microRendu is about the size of a small flip phone, only connects ethernet in and USB out, and runs a small custom linux OS on an sd card that is accessed headless with a really simple and easy GUI. It was built with low noise hardware and the best sound throughput as the top priority. Took all of under five minutes to set up. It has several modes: Squeezelite, DLNA (regular and open home), NAA Roon/HQ player mode, airshare and I think maybe one other. I have mine running in upnp mode from my Vortexbox using the Lumin app as a controller. Currently also running Roon as a trial, but for what it costs and the hardware requirements its not for me at the moment. Cool app though, esp if you have a big collection.
From the moment I plugged the microRendu in I knew that it was game over. And it just keeps getting better as it burns in; I also added an Atlas Element USB cable that sounds really nice for the price. I think the likes of already fringe companies like Aurender and Auralic have got to be more than bit worried about what these even more fringe upstarts are doing. I'm not really the best person to be doing comparisons because I've never had the $ to change out gear like some do, or work my way up a heirarchy like Naim. But it really is extraordinarily impressive, made my old set up sound "broken" even (and I thought it sounded pretty damn good). I never thought I would have a hifi this good due to $. Lots of talk in hifi about "inky blackness" which I've never really experienced until now. Reverb esp - its like it just floats out into an empty void. A bit disconcerting at first actually! Also the balance is perfect - voices are right where they should be, piano sounds totally natural (the true test imo), nothing recesses or comes forward in any strange way. I was experiencing some fatigue before and now that's history. The only fatigue now is from staying up to late listening to music nonstop!!
So, if you're looking at streaming options and have a dac (or plan on getting one), then you should check out the mR. Imo its' this years Hugo - a serious game changer, at least as far as where USB audio is at. For me it's all I'll ever need in that regard. And the UQ is now happy and wonderful sounding where it should be, in my basement office, utilizing all of its functions. 
Posted on: 19 March 2017 by Mayor West
Now just using an 'el cheap' from China with an R-core that seems to work just fine.
Just added one of these to my USB Regen... works an absolute treat! 
Posted on: 21 March 2017 by GregW
Hi Greg,
Where do you host your files?
M
I am using Roon to store and manage my local and Tidal libraries.
Posted on: 21 March 2017 by GregW
Here's my setup which I recently changed by replacing an older switch with a higher capacity model allowing me to eliminate a switch.
Notes:
- The Naim components are on a separate electricity circuit.
- The Cisco SLM2008 Switch in my media cabinet is powered by the Meraki Core switch over POE. Perhaps it's better/cleaner than using the supplied PSU. I don't know.
- I am using Roon to store and manage my local and Tidal libraries.
Posted on: 22 March 2017 by Brilliant
^ Thanks to your diagram I noted an erroneous label of the LPS-1 in mine, corrected below:
mySetup PC/mR/DAC-V1 that gives superb resolution, though thins the DAC-V1 sound a little compared to straight USB.
(old one above deleted)
Posted on: 22 March 2017 by Mr Underhill
Hi Greg,
I was interested in where you store your files as I wondered if you had seen the threads on the StarTech USB extender?
I bought an LPSU to power my Netgear Audio switch. My general impression is that the LPSUs deliver less edge, more relaxed without reducing dynamics. Depending on the power draw you could try a splitter with the LPS1.
M
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by sbilotta
The Dac V1 is more than robust running a micrRendu, but the rendu is picky about power and cabling. Uptown LPS-1 is the best bet. From there it's important the DC power cable between the LPS-1 and rendu be as short and robust as possible. I'm running a six inch custom one from China and at first it was too much bass! but running in nicely now. ..
Can you please shed some more light on this? Do you know the size of wire used?
I have a 10 inch DIY one, the equivalent of 17 AWG silver coated copper for each conductor, but I notice the Cardas DC-4 uses 15 AWG, for 2A?!
Let me know what they say. I just bought on a whim without questioning.
Will do - the cable looks like it is nicely done and is well priced. The important thing is that it works well!
The Cardas copper litz wire is cheap enough (15.5 awg. is $3.28/ft ) at partsconnexion. I was planning on trying that out at a later date.
22 AWG according to the seller, but it does look bigger than that in his picture. I am not confident that he himself is sure, as he seems to me to be a re-seller, based on the number of times I asked and his responses!
Hi Brilliant and Charlesphoto,
can you confirm that it is terminated with with 5.5mm x 2.1mm plugs at both ends ?
Thx
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by charlesphoto
Hi Sbilotta. It sure is, and seem to be pretty nice ones. A perfect fit, not to loose or too snug.
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by charlesphoto
^ Thanks to your diagram I noted an erroneous label of the LPS-1 in mine, corrected below:
mySetup PC/mR/DAC-V1 that gives superb resolution, though thins the DAC-V1 sound a little compared to straight USB.
(old one above deleted)
Hi Brilliant,
Curious about your custom USB cable. Do you think leaving off the 5v power leg makes any difference with the V1? I taped off my Atlas Hyper that I am using but then worried about it gumming up the inside of the rendu so removed it and no idea if there's a sound difference. Any feedback would be great. Thanks, CP
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Brilliant
Curious about your custom USB cable. Do you think leaving off the 5v power leg makes any difference with the V1? I taped off my Atlas Hyper that I am using but then worried about it gumming up the inside of the rendu so removed it and no idea if there's a sound difference. Any feedback would be great. Thanks, CP
Hi CP,
I experimented with the cable before many of the other tweaks. There is no way now to check it with the mR in place. But yes in the setup when I made the mod, it made a noticeable improvement in V1 clarity!
I believe there is an adapter that eliminates the Vbus pin - but I forget who makes it. Mr. Underhill might be able to help.
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Moussa
Curious about your custom USB cable. Do you think leaving off the 5v power leg makes any difference with the V1? I taped off my Atlas Hyper that I am using but then worried about it gumming up the inside of the rendu so removed it and no idea if there's a sound difference. Any feedback would be great. Thanks, CP
Hi CP,
I experimented with the cable before many of the other tweaks. There is no way now to check it with the mR in place. But yes in the setup when I made the mod, it made a noticeable improvement in V1 clarity!
I believe there is an adapter that eliminates the Vbus pin - but I forget who makes it. Mr. Underhill might be able to help.
You need the Vbus2 by Sbooster
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Mr Underhill
I use a VBus2.
On another forum the JitterBus is modded by cutting Pins 1 & 4 to achieve this, along with the JB functionality .....I don't like doing permanent mods of this sort.
M
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by charlesphoto
Looking for a Vbus2 in the States and not too much luck. Might have my wife's sister bring one over from Germany this summer when she visits. Looking at cable options too. I did say (to myself) this was the year of no hifi purchases.... but a wee little adaptor couldn't hurt. 
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Brilliant
Without pin 4 (Gnd) the V1 is not detected by the driver. I notice Sbooster has a Vbus3 announced. They are indicating an attempt to detect/ break the ground loop- cable integrated or adapter?
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Mr Underhill
Hi Brilliant,
Yes, some devices need to see the device power in order to work, hence my reluctance to do non-reversable changes.
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Mr Underhill
Looking for a Vbus2 in the States and not too much luck. Might have my wife's sister bring one over from Germany this summer when she visits. Looking at cable options too. I did say (to myself) this was the year of no hifi purchases.... but a wee little adaptor couldn't hurt.
Slippery Slope Warning!!
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Mr Underhill
Greg inspired me to update my digital system schematic ....made me realise how many changes I've made!
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by charlesphoto
Without pin 4 (Gnd) the V1 is not detected by the driver. I notice Sbooster has a Vbus3 announced. They are indicating an attempt to detect/ break the ground loop- cable integrated or adapter?
So am I correct then in guessing that a dual headed design (or one where the power wire can be unplugged like the Elijah) would work? A bit confusing but I take it with a dual headed design one just would leave the power 'head' unplugged and therefore it wouldn't do anything, and the B side that gets plugged into the DAC would have all of the pins, just no power. Several high end designs out there (YFS etc) but also a few cheapos from China. Might be worth a try....
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Mr Underhill
Charles,
When I was testing I took a cheap USB cable and used tape to cover pins 1 &/or 4 and tested what worked. In my case I found that different devices needed to 'see' different pins. For instance, the Breeze DU-U8 needed neither, which was ideal.
In the case of the StarTech LEX I use a dual head (assuming you mean a split USB cable?) and feed in the power from a Teradak LPSU.
The SBooster VBus2 is £20. Vortexbox UK sell them, if you email Martin, I am sure he would post it to you ......at a cost of course.
M
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Brilliant
Without pin 4 (Gnd) the V1 is not detected by the driver. I notice Sbooster has a Vbus3 announced. They are indicating an attempt to detect/ break the ground loop- cable integrated or adapter?
So am I correct then in guessing that a dual headed design (or one where the power wire can be unplugged like the Elijah) would work? A bit confusing but I take it with a dual headed design one just would leave the power 'head' unplugged and therefore it wouldn't do anything, and the B side that gets plugged into the DAC would have all of the pins, just no power. Several high end designs out there (YFS etc) but also a few cheapos from China. Might be worth a try....
The Elijah Konvertible would be okay, since GND stays connected - The thing with V1 though (I found), sounds different with various cables- if you like the one you have then the adapter might work best for you. The double headed one might not work if the GND is not connected in the data A connector (which I suspect is not to avoid a loop).
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by charlesphoto
Thank you and all very good to know. I haven't compared my Atlas to anything except a basic printer cable - not really sure if rolling USB cables is an area I want to tread as the Atlas seems to do the job and is well neutral.
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by Mr Underhill
I use the atlas, which I think is very good. I am going to buy a split USB cable and am looking at a number which range from what I consider to be expensive (£100) to medium stupid (£250).
Just had a look at the Konvertible - some people 'elsewhere' make up cables like these for their systems; my soldering skills are a bit too Neanderthal. There is a YouTube video where the poster cuts into the interconnecting cable an splits out the power cable - which is in my skill range. Perhaps you could buy a 2nd atlas and give it a go?
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by charlesphoto
That's an idea, but they're not readily available here in the States so shipping is the killer. Poking about and no thinking about trying the iFi iDefender ($45) which does a similar thing to the Vbus and cuts out any ground loop issues as well and is easily returnable here if it doesn't do it for me. So many options! Good thing I guess....
Posted on: 23 March 2017 by SamS
I used an Elijah Isolate CU (DATA and GND, No 5v Power) a couple of years ago when I had a DAC-V1 and it worked fine. It may have made a small improvement but it certainly wasn't night and day - YMMV. At the time I was thinkng that if the DAC doesn't need the 5v then why provide it, and any other possible artefacts that it might introduce.
The Isolate CU doesn't work with my current Hugo as that needs to see the 5v for handshaking I believe, but doesn't actually draw power. The Elijah Konvertible would appear to be be a more flexible and sensible solution.
Posted on: 01 April 2017 by Brilliant
If you use a Mac mini and are interested in the 'direct' connection to the mR for possible further SQ improvement, there is instruction on how to achieve this at computeraudiophile / Music Servers thread :
A novel way to massively improve the SQ of the sMS-200 and microRendu on page 50 (posts by amgradmd)
Posted on: 01 April 2017 by Mr Underhill
This got me sseriously considering buying a dual NIC NUC rarther than a Raspberry Pi 3, still in consideration.
